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Blackwell’s Corner

28 Sunday Apr 2019

Posted by ag1970 in Arroyo Grande, California history, Uncategorized

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Blackwell’s Corner is a gas station and little shop at the intersection of Highway 46, which will take you east to Bakersfield, and Highway 33, which will take you south to Taft, where I was born.

It is, in other words, so remote that it is nowhere.

I was a baby at home with Mom and so couldn’t see what was possibly the happiest thing that ever happened there. For some reason the bus had dropped off my Uncle George Kelly at Blackwell’s Corner. It must have been easy for my Dad, who’d come to pick him up, to see him. My uncle was and is tall and handsome and he would have been in his dress greens–this was during the Korean War–and he would’ve had his Army duffel bag slung over one shoulder and in the other hand there would’ve been grocery bag with twine handles and it would have been full of Government Issue property.

It was an official United States Army turkey. My uncle was an Army cook and it was Thanksgiving, so he’d come to spend some time in Taft with my Mom, his sister, and his parents–my Kelly grandparents.

Of course he would have called ahead both to arrange the rendezvous with Dad and to issue a good-natured warning to start the side dishes but lay off the turkey and dressing. He would bring the former–it must have been more than a little satisfying to choose a turkey when you had the time to inspect so many suspended on hooks inside a camp freezer. The Army is not necessarily kind to privates, so that would’ve made picking out the turkey even more satisfying.

As to the dressing, it would’ve been an original–my uncle cooked instinctually and decisively–and it would’ve been divine.

I’m not sure where he was based–it might have been Fort Ord–but there’s nothing better than a long bus ride for thawing a purloined turkey. It would’ve been densely wrapped, of course, and whoever sat next to Pvt. Kelly on the Greyhound and the Orange Line buses might’ve asked what was in the bag. Anybody who started a conversation with George was in for a long haul. Still, an Uncle George monologue would’ve colored the trip through severe bareness of the southern San Joaquin Valley.

He was a natural storyteller, and telling the turkey story would’ve led to another story and then George would ask a question of his seatmate who would tell a story of his own, and for every story you had, George had one to equal it.

His might’ve been about Army life or his attempt to work his way through Cal Poly by hustling pool or about the time his Dad, the cop, had won an unequal fistfight–unequal in the sense that only three oilfield roughnecks had attacked Taft police officer George Kelly Sr.  You needed to bring more guests to the table to win a fight with my grandfather.

The table in Taft, of course, at my Gramps and Grandma Kelly’s, would’ve been beautiful, dense with potatoes and  yams and string beans and gravy and Uncle George dressing and cranberry sauce. The centerpiece would have been the U.S. Army turkey and it would have been done perfectly, stuffed with apples and onions and dusted with sage and rosemary and with the breast meat still moist and tender.

In all honesty, the Army, for once, had done something precisely right because my uncle is a superb cook. And Pvt. Kelly, there at the table with his sleeves rolled up but with his Army tie tucked by regulation into his uniform blouse, would have been the handsomest man alive.

I was there and don’t remember any of this because I was in my high chair eating mashed potatoes with my hands and missing my mouth with most of them. But I’ve heard, growing up, the story of Dad finding my uncle at Blackwell’s Corner three or four times, So, oddly enough, I do remember exactly what was going on and how the table looked and, by the way, how beautiful my Mom was, and I can remember it like it was last week.

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My Aunt Judy, Uncle George, Mom and my sister Roberta, about 1943

My next memory of Blackwell’s corner would have been about 1958, when we were on the road from Arroyo Grande to Bakersfield. That was three years after James Dean had made his last stop there before the Porsche Spyder’s fatal crash near Cholame. Today the Corner, then an unpretentious Atlantic Richfield gas station with a little store, is pure kitsch. There’s a figure of Dean out front, slouching slightly in his Rebel Without a Cause red jacket, and it’s obscene. I take my James Dean seriously. Neither my wife nor my U.S. History students had seen East of Eden until I showed them the film, released, of course, after his death, and the connection he made with all of them was both instant and lasting. They got him.

So Dean was three years gone and not yet a gift shop bobblehead when we stopped at Blackwell’s Corner as we did every trip to Bakersfield. This stop was at night, which was merciful, because driving at night on the 46 means you have nothing to look at out the car windows except for the scattered lights of isolated homes and metal sheds, the watchmen’s places for men who patrolled the fields with flashlights. The fields were populated otherwise only by coyotes, jackrabbits and Union Oil pumps, donkey pumps, that worked all night making Union Oil rich and powerful.

During the day you could see the pumps, most in perpetual motion and so the only signs of life in that desolate part of California where the dominant colors are a yellowish sand and purplish gray.  This is where locals, for both fun and for the rueful acknowledgement of the severity of their environment, celebrate Christmas by decorating tumbleweeds, spraying them with artificial snow and stringing them with little blinking lights. What had brought them to this severe place was oil; what had brought my Dad’s cousins here from the Ozark Plateau was oil, what had brought my mother’s father here, the son of Famine immigrants who’d worked oilfields in Pennsylvania in the 1870s, was oil.

We had gotten into the habit of stopping at Blackwell’s Corner because after an hour of staring at such a dry landscape, you  get intensely thirsty. So we would stop for a Coke for my Mom, a Pepsi for my big sister and Nehi orange sodas for my brother and me. Dad got a Coors.

By 1958 my Grandmother Gregory was sliding into dementia and increasingly fragile, so that must have been why we were driving the 46 at night. There was something wrong with Grandma Gregory.

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My Grandfather and Grandmother Gregory, Raymondville, MIssouri, at about at the time of his death. Grandma was a hard woman to knock down in a windstorm.

Grandma Gregory smelled like Ben-Gay and she told stories as profusely as Uncle George, but hers were all about dead people and precisely how they died and each story would end with a deep sigh and her adjusting the eyeglasses that made her eyes, now moist, so big behind the lenses. My mother called Grandma Gregory “Mother.” My father’s relationship with her was difficult, and it came from the time she’d called him back to the house when he’d been walking with my grandfather to a neighbor’s across the road. My grandfather was partly deaf and when he reached the road he never heard the Ford that killed him.

While Mom got the drinks I, being six, of course had to pee, so Dad took me into the men’s room. It was then that my epiphany happened, the beginning of my dread for this part of California. It doesn’t seem like much. But what had happened is that there’d been a sandstorm that day–the kind they describe in 1930s Oklahoma, where when you woke up there was a perfect outline of your head on the only clean part of the pillow.

The sandstorm that day at Blackwell’s Corner was so intense that the toilet bowl was filled with sand. For some reason this sight terrified me. I stood there for a long time with Dad waiting impatiently but I couldn’t make water. I told him I could hold it until we reached Bakersfield.

So we got back into our car, into the Oldsmobile, and continued east on the 46, where careless drivers forgot to dim their headlights and drunk drivers crossed into your lane and where cocky drivers miscalculated how quickly they could pass a semi truck. I don’t know that I was interested in my Nehi and I probably didn’t say much–I didn’t say much anyway–the rest of the way. I would have been thinking of sand and tumbleweeds and donkey pumps and after a few miles the irrational fear I’d felt in Blackwell’s Corner would’ve been replaced by a deep sadness.

If I was lucky, I would’ve gone to sleep. That meant, in those pre-seat belt days, asleep in the front with my feet in Dad’s lap and my head in Mom’s, with her gently stroking my hair. In my sleep, of course, I dreamed of seeing oak-studded hills and rows of crops, wet under sprinkler arcs; I would’ve dreamed most of all of seeing the ocean again.

I’ll take my mortality sweet as honey and just as slow

25 Thursday Apr 2019

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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Home. This was the view. alongside Huasna Road, that greeted me every morning while growing up.

It’s been a wet winter, and trees and plants and shrubs and weeds have been engaged in a kind of reproductive bacchanalia that brings on my allergies. Very occasionally, they’re so bad that I battle allergy-onset asthma.

After four weeks of coughing, I made the prompt decision to visit my doctor. It didn’t take her long to reach a diagnosis. She looked at my ankles, which resemble Popeye’s forearms. She noted my weight: I’d gained 17 pounds in two weeks and had been forced to make a WalMart run for fat jeans.

So it wasn’t allergies and it wasn’t asthma. It is, instead, congestive heart failure.

Here’s the definition I openly plagiarized:
Congestive heart failure: Inability of the heart to keep up with the demands on it, with failure of the heart to pump blood with normal efficiency. When this occurs, the heart is unable to provide adequate blood flow to other organs, such as the brain, liver, and kidneys. Abbreviated CHF. CHF may be due to failure of the right or left ventricle, or both. The symptoms can include shortness of breath (dyspnea), asthma due to the heart (cardiac asthma), pooling of blood (stasis) in the general body (systemic) circulation or in the liver’s (portal) circulation, swelling (edema), blueness or duskiness (cyanosis), and enlargement (hypertrophy) of the heart. The many causes of CHF include coronary artery disease leading to heart attacks and heart muscle (myocardium) weakness; primary heart muscle weakness from viral infections or toxins, such as prolonged alcohol exposure; heart valve disease causing heart muscle weakness due to too much leaking of blood or causing heart muscle stiffness from a blocked valve; hyperthyroidism; and high blood pressure.

I have most, if not all, of those symptoms. Of course, “prolonged alcohol exposure” is probably the most likely among a network of causes.

 

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Home #2. Italy remains the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen. This is Assisi.

After the doctor visit, I do what I always do in situations like this: I Googled. Half of the hits came up and confidently predicted that I have about five years to live. Tops.

Elizabeth did some more detailed research and found those to be a worst-case scenarios. With proper diet and medication and exercise–which, right now, I am just too tired for, but I’m going to give it shot tomorrow–I could live so long and become so obnoxious that people will actually want to take a contract out on me. They might even Crowdfund to get the job done.

I have two excellent doctors and even better, the Fisers. Randy has been my friend since high school and my fellow teacher, and his heart problems, with the help of his self-discipline and his incredible wife, have been largely neutralized. He is as vigorous now as he was in high school, when he played football and swam. So they’re going to educate us.

Hearing the diagnosis was a tough call. I was so proud of myself for beginning again with sobriety and was fighting the physical and emotional pain of withdrawal, and I was winning. It’s just that I couldn’t stop coughing, which was my body’s attempt at self-preservation, at expelling the fluids that were filling me up like a water balloon.

 

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Home #3: The Codori Farm, Gettysburg, a place I know almost as well as I do Arroyo Grande

 

It’s a tough call, too, to be so open about this. I’ve already told my family, of course, and about twenty friends, most of them AGHS colleagues or local historians. But to put this out into the open is not intended either to frighten people or to solicit pity for me. I don’t want to do either of those. And I remain, thank you very much, forcefully and stubbornly alive.

Good things have come of this. I went to church–to my cradle church, St. Barnabas–Easter Sunday and almost started crying over the words of the liturgy I’d grown up with. Also, I sat next to retired teacher Shirley Houlgate, one of the AVID pioneers and one of the loveliest persons I’ve ever met. Dan Krieger  has asked me to contribute some columns for Times Past, and despite the possibility that the copy editors were downing Margaritas and messed part of the piece up, I got in a column about my Dad. The theme, as it turned out, was about reconciliation and that’s a good one for Easter Sunday. I’ll probably contribute three or four more in the coming weeks.

What worries me is having the energy to start new stuff. My kind of writing requires interviewing, traveling, hours and hours at the computer and even more hours and hours taking notes in museums and libraries. The amount of work that goes into even a little 35,000 word book is staggering.

This also meant that I’m going to have to cancel the Adult Ed class I’d planned to teach in the fall, and that was, for me, like canceling Christmas.

For now, getting healthy again involves a lot of inactivity, something I hate. I’m happiest when I’m busy and am most myself (other than when I’m in the classroom, when what you see and hear is the most authentic Jim Gregory there is) when I am utterly and completely lost in research, like tracking down the serial number of a B-17 shot down in October 1944.

 

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Home #4, yet to be visited: Glenadough, County Wicklow, Ireland.

 

So I am completely unsure about what the future holds. I am sure, increasingly, of how much I love my family and of how beautiful our dogs are (my standard greeting to Wilson: “Hello, Handsome.”) I think it’s time, too, for me to get outside more and be much less the literary hermit I’ve been the last four years. I think that was me compensating for missing my teenagers.

Most of all, I want to live a long time for them, for those teenagers who are no longer teenagers. My last bunch, from the Class of 2015, is graduating from college and going on to grad school or law school or med school or careers. Some of them have fallen in love and are going to be posting baby pictures in the next few years.

Other kids from my past, no longer kids but admirable young adults, are fighting health problems as serious or even more serious than mine, and they are doing so with such honesty and  openness that they humble me in the oddest way: I’m finding out that it’s possible to be humbled and immensely proud at the same time.

That’s not a bad way to live out my life no matter how long it may last. For now, that’s a good long time.

 

Arroyo Grande High School stock

Home #5, of course.

 

Flyboys

03 Wednesday Apr 2019

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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This could be one of my favorite World War II movie clips, from 1990’s “Memphis Belle.” These are B-17Fs, bereft of the forward chin-mount dual machine guns, a later correction, which meant that the boys inside these planes–and some of them were boys, sixteen-year-old liars–were fodder for any Focke-Wulf 190 pilot who attacked from head-on.

That’s how Clair Abbot Tyler, a co-pilot from Morro Bay, died in 1943. An FW-190 cannon round shattered him in his seat. He left a little girl behind him at home.

What the film producers couldn’t have known is the incredble impact our soldiers and fliers had on their surrogate children, who happened to be British, not American. Here is what I found out from researching the little book I wrote:

When B-17s like these took off on their missions, they, and their Hershey bars, and their brashness and unaffected friendliness, had so earned the devotion of British children that dozens of them would line the airfield perimeter to wave goodbye to their Yanks.

I learned this, too: The same fliers were perfectly aware that the German railyards they bombed were flanked by working-class neighborhoods, and so when they missed their aim points, which happened on every mission, they were killing children 25,000 feet below.

It was this realization, and not cowardice, that led many of them to freeze in their chairs at pre-mission briefings to become so rigid that it took three of their comrades to pry them loose and walks them them to the base hospital, to the squadron psychiatrist.

The great poet Randall Jarrell, an Eighth Air Force weatherman who never flew a combat mission, could never let go of those German children. This is what led him to walk very deliberately into the path of a car on a North Carolina highway twenty years after his war had ended.

Branch Street, Arroyo Grande, California

02 Saturday Mar 2019

Posted by ag1970 in Arroyo Grande, Uncategorized

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Branch adobe

 

I found this beautiful watercolor online of the Branch Adobe, decaying after the damage done to it by the 1857 Fort Tejon earthquake. It was near the junction of Branch Mill and School Roads in the Upper Arroyo Grande Valley, on a little rise that still commands the valley below. A little lower are palm trees and a clearing that was the foundation of the redwood house Branch’s sons built for their mother, Manuela, after the adobe had finally melted into the ground. Manuela’s home burned to the ground when I was a little boy; we woke and could see the incredible white light of the fire as CDF trucks sped by, too late to save it. A neighbor took me there the next day and all that was left was a burned-out foundation, smoke and ashes.

But what had been there began in 1837, the same year Victoria came to the throne five thousand miles away. That’s when Branch came to the Valley. He was in his mid-thirties, a gentleman now after a career as a Great Lakes boat captain, a mountain man, a trapper, a Santa Barbara businessman. With him was with his twenty-two-year-old wife, Manuela, and their little boy, who would someday build a home that is today the Talley Farms Winery tasting room. The Valley, even for a young woman as strong and loyal as Manuela, was too wild to bear her second child. Eight months pregnant, she rode home on horseback over the San Marcos Pass to Santa Barbara to deliver her baby where her parents would be close by.

What her husband first encountered were monstrous grizzly bears that carried off the seed of his hoped-to-be-fortune, bawling calves, so he began to kill the bears. His neighbor in the Huasna, another mountain man, George Nidever, gave up cattle ranching after he’d killed his one hundredth grizzly. (His successor there, Isaac Sparks, lost an eye to a grizzly.) You have to concede something to both Branch and Nidever: They’d gotten out of the fur trade at just about the same time British machine-made velvet replaced beaver pelts for gentlemen’s hats. But only Branch survived the bears.

 

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The Upper Arroyo Grande Valley, San Luis Luis Obispo County, today. Branch’s adobe would’ve stood on the hillock at the right-center of this photograph.

 

Grizzlies weren’t the only obstacle in 1837. The Upper Valley then was dense with willow scrub—the californio word is “monte”—so dense and so punishing that leather chaps were invented to protect vaqueros like Branch’s from having their legs slashed to ribbons when they plunged into it to rescue strays. Branch cleared the monte and planted the crops he knew from his native New York: Wheat and corn, apple and peach trees. An Eastern corn-sheller was his proudest possession, and the base of the grindstone he used to mill the Valley’s flour still sits in Arroyo Grande’s Heritage Square. Both of them were landed at Cave Landing– what is today Pirate’s Cove, near Avila Beach.

His ranch hands—many of them Chumash, others mestizo—worked hardest at roundup in June, when the cattle were slaughtered, not for beef, but for their hides. The hides were stretched on racks and soaked with seawater until they were cured and as stiff as plywood. Then they were hauled, by cart, or careta, to Cave Landing, where they’d be tossed into the surf to be fetched by fearless men, often Hawaiians, who would haul them into longboats to hoisted up into the holds of Yankee brigs bound for Cape Horn and then to Boston Harbor and Boston’s shoe factories.

It was the Gold Rush that transmuted cattle from hides into beef, meat for hungry miners from New York and Sonora and France and Chile. All it took to get the meat to market was your life: Branch and John Price found the bodies of ten people murdered at Mission San Miguel because the innkeeper there had unwisely let drop how much gold dust he’d earned for the mutton he’d sold to the gold fields. Jack Powers and Pio Linares and “Zorro’s” inspiration, Salomon Pico, waylaid cattle brokers in the Cuesta Pass and Gaviota and in Drum Canyon near Los Alamos for the gold dust they carried from beef sold to the gold fields. Pico collected their ears. To fight men like these, Branch became a member of the San Luis Obispo Vigilance Committee, which was different in two respects from San Francisco’s: Our was a little later. We hanged more men.

 

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Francis Branch’s tombstone is at left-center; his three daughters’ tombstones are just to its right. The eldest was sixteen.

 

Branch was in San Francisco in 1862 when he got the message from Manuela. She’d given shelter to a traveler, common to ranch families then, and what he’d given the family in return was smallpox. Branch rode hard to get home again and by the time he did, exhausted and despondent, two of his little girls were dead and a third died soon after.

 

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Kazuo Ikeda would come to farm  the land behind him in this photograph, once owned by Branch. After Kaz and his family came home from the internment camp at Gila River, they coached Little League and Babe Ruth, inaugurated youth basketball, organized the Rotary Club fish fry, which provides scholarships to local high school students, and restored the Branch family cemetery.

 

 

They are buried next to him today, three little tombstones, broken in the years since by cattle scratching itches, next to his big tombstone. Branch died twelve years after, so he would have given instructions to have his little girls close by him. It had to have been the biggest heartbreak of his life.

 

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Francis Ziba Branch

 

Until the drought years of 1862-64. The vast herds of beef cattle he’d tended with such care for twenty-five years died on yellow, stubbled hillsides. Thirst and coyotes and ravenous mountain lions winnowed them down until they were gone. Branch lost the modern equivalent of eight million dollars.

What he hadn’t lost yet was himself, his wife, and his family. He was making the transition to row crops and tree crops and dairy farming and was dividing the Santa Manuela into sub-ranches run by ambitious sons and sons-in-law—men who were founding schools and building roads and raising churches—and then the immense energy this small, wiry, ambitious man had always taken for granted was finally taken from him, by pneumonia, in 1874.

 

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Branch Elementary School, the two-room schoolhouse where my education began in 1958.

 

So we have a street named for him today.

Yesterday I saw a pickup truck rear-end a sedan at the flashing crosswalk on Branch Street between Rooster Creek Tavern and the Branch Street Deli. Dozens of gawkers gathered to watch the culprit and the policeman and the fire trucks and the ambulance, thankfully, unneeded, as it turned out. Soon the gawkers dissipated and the commotion evaporated.

What was left, once the accident was cleared, was the name of the street. The folks involved, and the gawkers, too, most of them tourists, are to be forgiven, of course, given the situation, for not knowing a thing about the man for whom the street was named. Neither do the customers or the young and attractive waitresses at Rooster Creek Tavern or the sandwich-makers at Branch Street Deli.

But the street where they work is named for the man who once brought grizzly bears down with a Hawken rifle to make his cattle safe enough to the graze the land where he would build the adobe to raise the family, eleven children less three little girls, that would evolve into the beginning of a town—in 1869, one smithy, one general store, one school—that would someday name its main street for him. Yesterday, all that meant was headlight glass shattered in the crosswalk.

 

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Branch Street, Arroyo Grande, about 1904.

 

 

How to write a book, in easy-to-understand steps

28 Thursday Feb 2019

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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Cover

  1.  Decide to write a book.
  2. Wake up at 2 a.m. and realize that you may have made a mistake.
  3. Change your mind. Collect every short piece you’ve written in the last six years and divide them into themes.
  4. Collect them altogether into a Word document. It’s immense.
  5. Wake up at 2 a.m. and realize that some of your short pieces are doo-doo.
  6. Excise bad pieces, much like the guy who got his arm caught between boulders and sawed it off with a penknife.
  7. Word document slightly less immense. Hmmm. Something’s missing…
  8. So, what the heck? Add photographs. Make it immenser.
  9. Wake up at 2 a.m. and realize that you have to add headers, footers, page numbers, a table of contents and squish it altogether into a 6″ x 9″ format with 1″ gutters.
  10. Three weeks later, book is assembled.
  11. Rewrite begins. Rewrite, rewrite, rewrite. You wonder, in re-writing if you were actually literate to begin with. I said THAT?
  12. Three weeks later, you turn it over to a copy editor.
  13. Two weeks later, when she gives it back, you realize you are only semi-literate. Maybe the book should be in Esperanto.
  14. Rewrite, rewrite, rewrite. Throw stories out. Throw words out. Throw, throw, throw.
  15. Submit manuscript to automated online editor. Are you sure you’ve got the copyright? Throw photographs out.
  16. Rejected. Margins.
  17. Submit again
  18. Rejected. Page numbers.
  19. Repeat Step 15 fifty-six times.
  20. Yay! MS accepted! You get a proof copy of your book!
  21. You chose 12-point type, as recommended. It looks monstrous, like “On Cherry Street,” which was your first-grade reader in 1958.
  22. Re-do the entire manuscript in 10-point type. Re-do headers, footers, page numbers, table of contents.
  23. One week later, re-submit.
  24. Yay! You get a proof copy of your book!
  25. The header on page 156 is missing and so is the caption on page 203.
  26. Re-submit.
  27. Yay! You get a proof copy of your book!
  28. Wake up at 2 a.m. This was a really stupid idea.
  29. Re-read some of the content. Well, doggone it, that’s pretty good after all.
  30. Throw more stories out Throw more words out. Eliminate any references to Donald John Trump. Add a song you wrote about Mike the Wonder Chicken.
  31. Submit. It’s accepted!
  32. Yay! Get proof copy #3. It looks good.
  33. Caption on page 34 of proof copy is off center. At this point, you no longer care.
  34. Read many articles about “How to Market Your Book.” Realize that  “marketing a book” is only slightly harder than learning how to run a nuclear submarine by yourself.
  35. Wake up at 2 a.m. and realize that you may have made a mistake. Repeat this step for two weeks.

YOU MAY (OR MAY NOT) BE A PUBLISHED AUTHOR!

My Feelings Are Hurt and That’s Okay

02 Saturday Feb 2019

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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muhammad-ali-zaire-1974

Earlier this week, a fellow historian advised me, in the most well-meaning way, that my writing had been infected by the stream-of consciousness technique. Luckily, he suggested a couple of copy editors as an urgent and necessary corrective.

Ouch.

That hurt my feelings for three reasons. One of then is Revision: there was an implication of sloppiness on my part in the advice on his part, yet most of the writing I do— although I write quickly, because that’s what journalism training teaches you—goes through countless revisions. I will be the first to admit that almost everything I’ve ever written has gotten better with either fewer words or demanding editors, even the slightly daft ones.

A second reason for my emotional flesh wound is that my critic lives in San Luis Obispo, which means that he looks down on us bumpkins in Arroyo Grande or Morro Bay or Paso Robles from insurmountable intellectual heights.

The third reason that I got this counsel is that I don’t think like an academic historian. Although my books are researched in depth, with footnotes in platoons,  my writing doesn’t progress in a methodical manner: I’m not a tugboat nudging a great passenger liner into its berth along the East River in New  York.

Oops. I did it again.

I don’t think in a linear way. Never have. I think laterally: One idea will lead me to another that might be a continent or a century away from the idea I’m supposed to be discussing. I found that of immense help as a teacher, because I’d take the kids along with me in the comparison of one historical event to another, seemingly disparate, event. It worked, judging from the way their eyes would light up, because they understood metaphors and, even more, they loved understanding.

One of the historical events we studied was the impact of Freudian psychology on popular culture, and it just so happens that the stream of consciousness was part of one lesson plan. Here is a passage my kids read, from the opening to Joyce’s Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man:

Once upon a time and a very good time it was there was a moocow coming down along the road and this moocow that was coming down along the road met a nicens little boy named baby tuckoo

And here is an excerpt from an essay on Muhammad Ali that shows me doing the exact same thing. as if I were a member of the Junior Joyce Fan Club.

*  *  *

At a press conference at the Waldorf-Astoria before leaving for the 1974 Zaire fight against George Foreman, the “Rumble in the Jungle,”, Muhammad talked about his training:

I’ve wrestled with alligators,
I’ve tussled with a whale.
I done handcuffed lightning
And throw thunder in jail.
You know I’m bad.
just last week, I murdered a rock,
Injured a stone, Hospitalized a brick.
I’m so mean, I make medicine sick.

 

* * *

The novelist Norman Mailer, going into that fight, said that Muhammad was afraid. Foreman had destroyed Frazier, destroyed Ken Norton—two fighters who had beaten Ali–in two bouts that had lasted two rounds each. Mailer implied that the volume of Muhammad’s poetry was in direct proportion to the intensity of his fear.

But Ali had watched films of the fights, and when Foreman had knocked those men down, he’d meekly and quickly retired to his corner, breathing heavily. He didn’t have the stamina it would take to escape the trap Ali was laying for him—a fight intended to be a marathon. As Foreman pounded a crumpled Ali, gloves up, forearms locked at the elbows, in merciless showers of blows that would have hospitalized most men, Ali whispered to him, from the ropes, after one particularly jarring punch, “That the best you got, George?”

In the end, Mailer probably was right. Ali, the victor, was afraid of George Foreman. That is why he was so remarkable. George Foreman grew to love Muhammad Ali. That is why he is the greatest.

* * *

My late brother-in-law, Tim O’Hara, then living in Los Osos, took my nephew Ryan, then a little boy, to meet Ali at a Los Angeles-area sports-card show and signing. Ali signed a pair of boxing gloves, and took a moment to look at Ryan and remark on something I’m not sure Ryan had ever much liked. “I love your curly hair,” the Champ said softly.

* * *

In Famine Ireland, an English clergyman and his companion climbed into their carriage to leave a stricken town. A thirteen-year-old girl, expressionless, her clothing in tatters and so exposing ribs like an accordion’s bellows, her clavicle and shoulder joint with their contours visible just below her skin, began to run after the carriage. When the horses picked up speed, so did she. The clergyman, distressed, kept looking out the window and the girl and her long, bony legs were keeping pace with them. She did so for two miles. The clergyman could finally take no more, ordered the driver to stop, and gave the girl money. She took the money, expressionless and silent, and turned her back on them to walk home.

In the film When We Were Kings, African children, in the same way, ran after Ali’s car. They weren’t expressionless. Their faces were radiant with joy. They weren’t silent. They sang for Ali when his car stopped for them, a call-and-response song so beautiful that it makes you shiver to hear it. What the clergyman gave the little girl would have kept her alive, but only for a short time. What Ali gave these children would feed them all their lives.

 *  *  *

So there is nothing in my writing that couldn’t be better with a good editor, or with ruthless pruning. But for those who use literary terms loosely or whose thinking is safely bound by convention and by academic conformity, my writing lacks the certainty and comfort of boredom. For that I’m not too sorry.

 

Gallery

The wonderful art of Capability Brown

29 Tuesday Jan 2019

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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This gallery contains 17 photos.

Even though it befuddled me, The Favourite reminded me of how much I loved teaching history, including art history. And …

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Sheila Varian’s “Perfect Horse”

17 Thursday Jan 2019

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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Ronteza and Sheila during their near-fall

The Polish-born Arabian stallion’s name was Witez II—“Chieftain” or “Hero” in translation, and he was at sea, bound for a new home in post-World War II America. But as his ship entered the Bay of Biscay, it was hit by an intense storm that produced monstrous waves. Its cargo—Witez and 150 other prized European horses—began to make noise below decks: the terrified animals screamed, kicked at the bulkheads and began struggling among each other, and wounding each other, in confusion and panic.

A U.S. Army officer, Capt. William Quinlan, was in charge of the Liberty Ship Austin’s precious cargo. Quinlan and his soldiers worked frantically to separate and calm the horses—Arabians, like Witez, along with Thoroughbreds and Lipizzaner from Vienna’s famed Spanish Riding School.

Quinlan lurched toward Witez and found him quiet and unafraid, focused fiercely on maintaining his balance as the ship straddled another wave. Writer Elizabeth Letts describes the encounter:

Quinlan stroked the horse’s nose for a moment, whispering a quiet word of thanks. Witez, the chieftain, had been bred to maintain his composure in the fury of battle—and here on the Stephen F. Austin, he had won his warrior’s stripes.

Sixteen years later, another horse would demonstrate the same composure and focus that Witez did that day in the Bay of Biscay. She, too, was an Arabian. She, too, was a warrior. The smallish, hard-muscled mare, named Ronteza, was Witez’s daughter. Her home was Corbett Canyon, near Arroyo Grande, and in 1961 she would prove herself to be her father’s daughter in front of 20,000 spectators who watched, momentarily hushed, as the little horse stumbled and fell in competition.

Her rider was Sheila Varian.

* * *

It was, of course, Walter Farley’s classic book The Black Stallion that first made Sheila Varian, along with many generations of little girls, fall in love with horses.

Varian was raised in Halcyon in a family marked by brilliant individuality—two uncles were the founders of one of the first electronics firms in what is now known as Silicon Valley. She learned to ride during gallops one the beach at age eight on Judy, little Ronteza’s opposite. Judy was a sixteen-hand Morgan/Percheron cross, so it was a long way to the ground. Varian wouldn’t be gifted with her first saddle until she was twelve, but she, wearing feathers in her hair, in her imagination a Plains Indian, would gallop for miles on Judy, the horse her father rode hunting deer in the hills above the nearby Arroyo Grande Valley. She was fifteen when her parents bought her first Arabian, a mare named Farlotta. Varian describes the intensity and the symmetry of that relationship:

I don’t know if I’ve ever loved anything as I loved Farlotta. She was frightened, belligerent, thin and wormy when I got her, but nothing mattered except that she was mine. I ate my dinner in her manger. I dreamed in the sun lying stretched out on her back. For a long time she bolted and ran, half a dozen times every ride.

It was a tribute to Varian’s emerging gift in working with horses when she and Farlotta, a few years later, began winning awards up and down the state—including the All-Arabian Show at the Cow Palace, where another Varian mare, Ronteza, would make her debut a few years later, in 1961.

By then, her parents had surrendered to the realization that this particular Varian’s genius lay with horses. As Sheila finished her education at Cal Poly and began working as a P.E. teacher at Arroyo Grande High school, the Varians acquired the twenty-one acres in Corbett Canyon that would be the nucleus of today’s 230-acre Varian Arabians, now home to over 150 horses. Her parents’ support was unswerving: her father, Eric, built fencing did the ranch’s maintenance work; her mother, Wenonah, became a self-taught expert researching the pedigrees of the Arabians that were potential Varian horses.

They decided to buy a “the blocky little mare,” as Varian described her affectionately, with a near-flawless pedigree: Ronteza’s dam was named Ronna; her sire was the stallion who had stood so calmly on the heaving deck of the Stephen F. Austin, Witez II.

* * *

The horse whose life almost ended in the Bay of Biscay in the fall of 1945 was foaled in the spring of 1938. Witez was born at Janow Podlaski, a farm that bred horses for the Polish cavalry. Elizabeth Letts describes a foal whose beauty was recognized almost instantly: he showed from his first wobbly moments a potential for perfect proportions and, fittingly, he was marked by a large white star on his forehead “that looked remarkably like an outline of his native Poland.”

Poland would be swallowed by the first act of World War II the next year. As Witez’s homeland was invaded by Hitler’s Germany and Stalin’s Soviet Union, Witez would almost become a casualty of war.

On September 11, 1939, ten days after the outbreak of war, the staff decided to evacuate the 250 Arabians at Janow Podlaski and drive them east, away from the German blitzkrieg that had been unleased for the first time in history on Poland. Their destination was a refuge in Rumania—500 miles away.

The trip almost claimed Witez. After days of a forced march—mostly at night, to avoid strafing by Luftwaffe fighters and Stuka dive-bombers—the colts began to tire, including Witez and two of his brothers. When the procession blundered into a vast Polish military convoy in the middle of the road east, Witez was among some eighty horses who panicked. He and his brothers disappeared into thick forest.

Their handlers were despondent. They pressed on, but, by September 20, their way blocked by artillery fire and by the news that the Soviets were advancing from the east, they turned back to Janow Podlaski.

Eventually, Witez would return to the farm, as well. Emaciated and exhausted, he was among some thirty of the runaways who’d been found and sheltered by Polish civilians, horse-lovers, as foreigners subdued their country.

For the next six years, Witez’s homeland, and his life, would be dominated by German authorities, including a self-proclaimed Nazi expert on breeding, Gustav Rau, who became the master of Janow Podlaski and who would become determined to produce prize animals—including Arabians and Lipizzaner—that would constitute, in the Nazis’ sinister view of genetics, “the perfect horse,” the kind of animal that could, for example, tirelessly pull an artillery piece for miles on European roads and then rush it into combat. Rau’s breeding program, he believed, grounded in stallions like Witez, would lead the Wehrmacht, the German Army, to ultimate victory.

* * *

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Sheila Varian and Bay-Abi, the foundation stallion she would breed to Ronteza.

Sheila Varian was seeking a victory of a different kind. As Varian Arabians began to grow in Corbett Canyon, the California native was learning californio horsemanship from another woman, a widow, Mary “Sid” Spencer, who bred Morgans and ran Herefords on the ranch she and her late husband had established in Lopez Canyon.

Spencer was an archetype, not just a rancher. She was a widow who ran a ranching operation on her own and so was fiercely independent and fiercely protective of the ranch she’d worked so hard to develop. In the early 1960s, my father and some friends went dove-hunting in Lopez Canyon when they inadvertently crossed onto Sid Spencer’s ranchland. Their first encounter with Sid was at the business end of a 30-30 carbine. “Why don’t we just sit here quietly,” she told the trespassers, “until the sheriff gets here?” All the parties involved thought this was a sound idea.

Spencer was also a masterful teacher, generous with her time and space to those who rode into her life on horseback. As tough as Sid could be on trespassers, she introduced Varian to a gentle kind of horsemanship—the California vaquero tradition—that her student believed could work as well for Arabians as it did for Spencer’s Morgans or the more common California working horse, the Quarter horse.

“Working” at the Spencer ranch was frequently celebratory: Photographer and writer Jeanne Thwaites described a typical calf roundup—an all-female occasion—at Spencer’s 1,900-acre ranch in the 1960s:

While men may make a roundup into a serious and even dreary business, the girls turn it into a riotous picnic. They try their roping techniques without inhibition, race after and throw the calves, and with gleeful gloat that no man is present to witness their shrieks, giggles and other unprofessionalisms. They wail about their bumps and bruises and make a lot of their own lack of brawn, but at the end of the day the job is complete and they are still full of fun.

Varian incorporated the kind of light-hearted approach to training her horses that typified Spencer’s ranch. “All good horses,” Sheila remarked, “like smart children, need good instruction, but they don’t need harsh instruction.” The vaquero way of training a cattle horse fits that philosophy, and Varian adapted it to training Arabians, beginning with them about age three with a bridle and snaffle bit in a process that where the horse would eventually graduate, as a full-fledged cow horse, to a spade bit. It is a training process that emphasizes, in every stage, patience, gentleness, a light hand and the development of intuitive communication between horse and rider. What Varian insisted on doing, in 1961, was proving a point: Her Arabians, with the proper training, could compete with any other breed—most commonly Quarter horses—in cattle work. The venue she chose to prove her point was the Cow Palace in San Francisco, the site of the ultimate in competition for working horses, the Reined Cow Horse Championship. Her mount would the little mare she didn’t think about much–at first— Ronteza—Witez II’s daughter.

* * *

Nearly six years after the opening of the war, Nazi Germany was crumbling, ironically, under the same kind of pressure—pressure from vast armies on both the nation’s western and eastern borders—that had crushed Poland in the fall of 1939. By the spring of 1945, Witez had been moved by the Nazis to Hostau, a farm in the modern Czech Republic.

But as the war turned rapidly against Germany, Witez was once again in danger, as he had been as a colt. The Soviet Army was approaching and destroying everything in its path, including horses, which they either expropriated as draft animals or shot on sight to provide meat for hungry soldiers. Conditions to the west were not necessarily safer: 200 Arabians fled Janow Podlaski and headed west, away from the Soviets. Among them were Stained Glass and Grand Slam, two of Witez’s brothers. The exhausted horses arrived in Dresden on the night of February 13, 1945, just as the Allied command unleashed the notorious fire raid, involving over 700 British and American heavy bombers, on the ancient city.

After a wave of bombers had dropped its incendiary bombs, one of the Polish handlers watched, horrified, as Grand Slam’s tail burst into flames. He held on as best he could to the powerful horse and closed his eyes. When he dared to open them again, the flames that had engulfed Grand Slam’s tail had sputtered out and the bombers were gone. So were over half of the Polish Arabians, incinerated in the fires or asphyxiated by the oxygen-consuming firestorm the incendiaries had been intended to produce. By the time the surviving animals reached their ultimate destination in western Germany, fewer than fifty remained.

But now Witez II’s survival at the Hostau farm in Czechoslovakia was in doubt. In late April 1945, he was among some 1,200 horses, including Arabians, Thoroughbreds and the Lipizzaner brood mares and their foals, the breeding stock for the Spanish Riding School. Ironically, it was the imminent end of the war that now endangered the Hostau horses: the Soviets were closing in.

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Witez II

Meanwhile, just to the west, it was the surrender of a German general to the Americans that would begin the remarkable rescue of the Hostau horses. Sensibly deciding that his chances were better in surrendering to Americans rather than to Soviets, the general began chatting amiably with an American officer, Col. Charles Reed, and the subject turned to horses. The German loved horses. Reed, the prewar commander of the famed 10th Cavalry—the “buffalo soldiers” who, in 1940, were still a mounted regiment—loved them just as much. The German officer made an emphatic plea to Reed: Might not the Americans rescue the animals before the Red Army turned them into “horseburgers?”

When word of the situation at Hostau reached Third Army’s commander, Gen. Patton, he was both sympathetic and peeved. The controversial officer, so frequently disciplined by his commander, Eisenhower, was in no position to authorize what most would see as a fool’s errand. He decided to anyway, but promised to disavow what would be called “Operation Cowboy” if anything went wrong.

“Get them,” her ordered the 2nd Cavalry’s Col Reed. “Make it fast.”

* * *

Sheila Varian’s first Arabian, the two-year-old named Farlotta, had represented a different kind of rescue. Although the pair had triumphed in 1956 at the All-Arabian show at the Cow Palace, the mare died soon after, at seven, the victim of disease and worms that had plagued her early years. Farlotta’s death—the angry and mistrustful horse had become Sheila’s friend—left her despondent. Varian’s depression began to lift only when she noticed that she wasn’t alone in her grief: standing with her head down in one of the ranch’s corrals was her second Arabian mare, Ronteza, who had been the horse closest to Farlotta. Sheila’s therapy, for both horse and rider, biographer Mary Kirkman noted, was to begin working with Witez II’s daughter.

At first, Ronteza was no replacement for Farlotta. The mare, purchased for $750 at a Porterville ranch on the basis of Wenonah Varian’s hours spent poring over pedigrees, was quiet and seemingly passive, especially when compared to the spirited Farlotta—who had even learned to enjoy games of “fetch” with the sticks Varian tossed for her—but gradually, Sheila began to realize the that the quiet little filly “was just a very serious, kind and sweet horse that didn’t beg for treats and didn’t come when called.”

Ronteza would come into her own at Sid Spencer’s ranch, when the mare began to show an instinctive feel for working cattle. Ronteza was cow-smart and she loved working. Varian began entering her, still in her hackamore bit, in competition against other Arabians, and the pair began winning. They then graduated to open shows, working cattle in an arena against competitors that were almost always Quarter horses. Ronteza was an interloper: Arabians, it was believed, were too delicate and fine-boned and lacked the toughness necessary to any cow horse. In the fall of 1961, Ronteza was finally “a finished spade bit reined cow horse,” and Varian decided to disprove the canard about Arabians in the most audacious way possible—at the reined cow horse championship, part of the Grand National Rodeo, at the Cow Palace in San Francisco.

* * *

In the spring of 1945 at the Hostau farm in Czechoslovakia, the men who cared for Witez and the Lipizzaner knew that the war was ending when the local Wehrmacht commander had a mountain of luggage piled into his chauffeur-driven Mercedes and promptly disappeared. He was followed by the teenaged soldiers of the Volkssturm, the youthful militia who were jubilant at being relieved of their ostensible duty, to stand and fight in defense of the horse farm.

When American trucks and armored vehicles began to appear on April 28 —they were the vanguard of the 2nd Cavalry, a component of Gen. George Patton’s Third Army—the stablemasters walked carefully toward the column with a large white sheet as a token of surrender. The Americans, though, had come in peace: Their mission was to secure the horse farm and protect the horses, and the man who had ordered them there was the 2nd Cavalry’s commander, Col. Hank Reed, the one-time horse soldier of the 10th Cavalry. His soldiers understood their mission.

At 71, Louis Holz, in 1945 a 2nd Cavalry lieutenant, remembered his motivation: “We thought we had a chance to save a sliver of culture for the rest of the world. We sensed the end [of the war] was in sight, and we were in a frame of mind to give credence to beauty once again.”

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Operation Cowboy

If Hostau was secured, the beautiful horses there were not yet safe. They would have to be evacuated to German soil now under Third Army’s control; the Czech farm lay within what was to be the postwar Soviet sphere of influence and the presence of American troops would constitute an opening shot in what would become the Cold War. Col. Reed began organizing Operation Cowboy, and the improbable convoy of jeeps, trucks—the latter carried mares about to foal and colts too fragile for a long journey—began to head west, for Germany. The 2nd Cavalry soldiers, after a war spent mounted on trucks and jeeps, not horses, had become actual cavalrymen. They were jubilant. So was the Arabian stallion under their care, Witez II, happy to leave Hostau behind. Elizabeth Letts describes the leave-taking:

Witez set off eagerly, eyes bright, tail aloft. On his back, one of the cavalry riders, a cowboy who hailed from Idaho, looked like he was having the time of his life. Few of the horses stabled at Hostau, horses used for breeding, were trained to be ridden under saddle, but Witez was one. The bay had been given the important job of riding herd on the young stallions, the group that would be the most excitable.

On May 16, four days after leaving Hostau, Witez and his traveling companions were safely inside Germany. But the stallion’s travels had just begun. By then, Third Army’s commander, a veteran polo player and Olympic pentathlete, George Patton, had been graced with a performance by the Spanish Riding School’s stallions, who’d spent the last days of the war in rural Austria. It was the riding school’s master, Alois Podhasky, who asked the mercurial general to officially place both the performing horses and the animals at Hostau under American protection. Podhasky could not have known that Patton had already authorized Operation Cowboy.

The rescue of his breeding stock so pleased Podhasky that he allowed the Americans to claim some of horses for their own. Witez II was among the 150 animals the Army chose, the spoils of war, for shipment to the Quartermaster Remount Depot at the Kellogg Ranch in Pomona. This was the voyage that had nearly claimed Witez and his traveling companions in the vicious storm that overtook the Austin in the Bay of Biscay.

In 1949, when the Army Depot closed, California breeders Earle and Frances Hurlbutt bought him at action for $8,000. When the couple began to show him, he won championship blue ribbons up and down the Pacific Coast. His main business remained at the Hurbutt’s Calabasas ranch, standing at stud and so producing a new generation of Arabians with Polish bloodlines. In 1954, Ronna, a mare bred to Witez, gave birth to the filly who would mature into Sheila Varian’s cow horse

* * *

Ronteza, according to conventional wisdom, had no more business competing at the Cow Palace than the 2nd Cavalry cowboys had riding through Czechoslovakia. By now—the fall of 1961—Varian had graduated from Cal Poly and was teaching P.E. at Arroyo Grande High School. She had the equivalent of two full-time jobs, because she also was working intensively with her mare every day after school, running laps in a nearby hay field to build her endurance. In October, the pair began working with cattle on a ranch near Oakhurst. Late in the month, Varian, her mother and Ronteza arrived in San Francisco for the Grand National Rodeo and the reined-horse competition.

Ronteza and her competitors would be expected to show their skill at riding patterns—in 1961, “anything the judge thought up, and they were given to you just before you entered the arena,” Varian remembered—that demonstrated the rider’s ability to maneuver the horse in turns, spins, figure-eights and sudden stops, where the horse is virtually sitting down in a dramatic cloud of arena dirt. The second part of the competition involved cow work, in chasing, heading and turning a steer.

In the competition’s first round, against thirty horses in the lightweight class, Varian survived a near-sleepless night at her hotel and Ronteza, ready to go—she disliked warmups and practice runs—passed the test: the pair were selected for the next round, against four other lightweight finalists. Varian, by the time that first round was finished, was emotionally and physically spent; she didn’t stay to watch the thirty horses and riders who would compete in the heavyweight division. At the time, she didn’t know that because Ronteza’s number had been called first in the lightweight division’s first round, she had won.

What the pair had done so far was stunning. Ronteza was the only Arabian competing in the championship. Sheila Varian was the only woman. They weren’t done making their point.

In the lightweight finals, Varian and Ronteza rode a new pattern, seemingly without effort. But when it came to cow work, the pair faced imminent disqualification. This is what Varian remembered in their pursuit of their steer:

Ronteza drove grittily and hard, pushing between the fence and the cow. She was galloping all out with her head down, charging for the shoulder of the cow to finish the circle. Suddenly her feet hit the hard-packed dirt from the horses’ buggies [a harness competition had preceded theirs] and in one motion she was falling. I was standing over her, feet on either side, the reins still in my hands. The rules echoed through my mind in slow motion: Go off your horse and you are eliminated.

A dramatic photo captures the moment: Ronteza is nearly flattened on her left side, her head still upright and her neck arched while Varian, upright, is being propelled forward with the reins still in her widely-splayed hands. The photograph suggests exactly what happened next: the position of Ronteza’s head shows that she’s already beginning to stand up; Varian, nearly over her mount’s neck, is refusing to stand down. The pair recovered—by now they had the audience on their side—and the determined little mare showed the same seriousness and focus that her father had shown below decks on the Stephen F. Austin: she circled and turned her cow.

It was now their turn to wait for the other four horses to compete.

The judges called Ronteza’s number first

* * *

That was Friday night. On Sunday afternoon, competing against the finalists in both the lightweight and heavyweight classes, Ronteza and Varian defeated all comers and were national champions. Varian remembered a moment from the Cow Palace competition vividly: at the start of one round, she could feel distinctly Ronteza’s heartbeat through the panels of the saddle. She knew then that her mare was ready. When the signal was given, when horse and rider entered the Cow Palace arena, two hearts beat as one.

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Sheila Varian, 2002. Photo by Lisa Andres

This story appeared in a slightly different version in the essay collection Will This Be on the Test?


https://www.amazon.com/Will-This-Be-Test-Reflections/dp/1795608366


The Horse Story

10 Thursday Jan 2019

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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Bay-Abi, Sheila Varian’s foundation stallion, was a Ronteza foal.

“When is your next book coming out?”

There’s nothing that can dry you up to turn you into a human prune as fast as that question. It doesn’t help that your writing dries up, too, as it has, for me, for several months. Self-pity is no damned good either, but it’s easy for small-potatoes writers like me: Writers don’t make a lot of money, and when the water heater or the washing machine go out, your royalties go away. Pouting uses up a lot of energy.

And then, since I’ve no talent for fiction, history writing demands that you do the research, the heavy lifting, which takes weeks and then months in places you’re not always welcome and then, when you are allowed in, it means furious note-taking in #2 pencil—the librarian strips you of everything else: no backpack, no pens, no paper, no camera—or delicate care, wearing cloth gloves, to turn the fragile pages of old newspapers or family histories that smell faintly of mildew.

It takes a lot of computer time, too, where increasing amounts of historical research are to be found, and that makes the internet a blessing.  For the Aviators book, it meant everything from B-17 training manuals to MACR (Missing Air Craft Reports) filed online, from tracking down B-24 Liberator serial numbers to identifying tropical diseases suffered by American fliers in the Southwest Pacific, from 1944 fighter group yearbooks to Eighth Air Force Mission reports from Big Week, in 1944, when masses of American bombers were sent up over Berlin.

The objective of Big Week, you find out, wasn’t bombing targets. Those missions were  instead intended to use the bombers as sacrificial bait to draw up German fighters so they could be shot down by American P-38s and P-51s.

The worst part of that job was finding, and reading, the Deceased Personnel Files of local fliers who didn’t survive Big Week, which include details you don’t want to know, including the way their bodies were identified after falling 25,000 feet or the list of personal effects  they left behind in their footlockers in Norfolk or Cambridge.

The German fighter pilots were twenty or twenty-one years old. The average age of a B-17 pilot was twenty-two. Some of their gunners were liars and so were only sixteen or seventeen when they fell 25,000 feet to earth.

So when faced with work like this, I fall back on old tactics, honed in childhood: I hide under the pillows until whatever that scary thing is out there decides to go away.

But hiding didn’t work then and it doesn’t work much better sixty years later, no matter how much and cheerfully I admit to being a coward.

The only thing that works in these cases, with this business of writer’s block, is to guarantee a piece against deadline. Then you either do the work or you implode.

Not being willing to become pruny or to implode, I tried to begin again today. For no earthly reason, except for the inspiration of the lives of two horses and two human beings (the latter two, women, one of them a gifted popular historian), and all four marked by remarkable courage.

I managed 1200 words.

If you can’t write about horses, baseball, battle or falling in love, you need to become an engineer or a police officer, and in so doing you’ll be much more useful to society, and much less neurotic.

Finishing the piece, of course, is another mountain to be climbed. But here’s the beginning. Sheila Varian’s grandparents were from Ireland, so I hope there’s a bit of Irish here. The purpose, though, has less to do with Ireland and more to do with what I want to with my writing: To link the place I love so much—Arroyo Grande—with places and events that seem so distant yet are much closer than any of us, including me, ever realized. Here, it will be a stud farm in Poland and a ranch in Corbett Canyon.

Here’s an excerpt.

 *  *  *

The Polish-born Arabian stallion’s name was Witez—“Chieftain” or “Hero” in translation, and he was at sea, bound for a new home in post-World War II America. But as his ship entered the Bay of Biscay, it was hit by an intense storm that produced monstrous waves. Its cargo—Witez and 150 other prized European horses—began to make noise below decks: the terrified animals screamed, kicked at the bulkheads and began struggling among each other, and wounding each other, in confusion and panic.

A U.S. Army officer, Capt. William Quinlan, was in charge of the Liberty Ship Austin’s precious cargo. Quinlan and his soldiers worked frantically to separate and calm the horses—Arabians, like Witez, Thoroughbreds and Lipizzaner bred for the Spanish Riding School in Vienna.

Quinlan lurched toward Witez and found him quiet and unafraid, focused fiercely on maintaining his balance as the ship straddled another wave. Letts describes the moment:

Quinlan stroked the horse’s nose for a moment, whispering a quiet word of thanks. Witez, the chieftain, had been bred to maintain his composure in the fury of battle—and here on the Stephen F. Austin, he had won his warrior’s stripes.

Sixteen years later, another horse would demonstrate the same composure and focus that Witez did that day in the Bay of Biscay. She, too, was an Arabian. She, too, was a warrior. The smallish, hard-muscled mare, named Ronteza, was Witez’s daughter. Her home was Corbett Canyon, near Arroyo Grande, and in 1961 she would prove herself to be her father’s daughter in front of 20,000 spectators who watched, momentarily hushed, as the little horse stumbled and fell in competition.

Her rider was Sheila Varian.

 

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Ronteza falls at the Cow Palace, San Francisco, 1961.

Billy’s Funeral

24 Monday Dec 2018

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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My brother-in-law’s funeral was awkward and wonderful. “Awkward” because Gregorys are both tightly-bond and distant–we don’t get together often– given childhoods marked by confusion, by alcohol and an unerring moral compass, by violence and inspired moments of love, by the imperative of survival and the depth of our pride in our parents, who remain the most singular and brilliant human beings I’ve ever known.

But we come together when we need to. We don’t talk much about what we feel for each other because proximity alone is so powerful. The pride we had in our parents is now manifest in the way we feel about each other: We are alive. We made it.

We didn’t know most of the people at Billy’s ceremony well, but the ones we remembered—sons and grandsons, soft-voiced and boulder-strong, beautiful daughters and granddaughters, blondes—came up to us without hesitating and embraced us.

These were the children my sister, Roberta, helped to raise as if they were her own.

All of them, boys and girls, children and grandchildren, no matter how hard the lives they’ve lived, are marked by a kind of bedrock integrity that Billy left for them, as if it were as genetic as brown eyes.

 

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You can’t help but love them.

The ones we didn’t remember weren’t relatives at all: they were cowboys Billy had hired –as skilled with a welding torch (the water-pipes on the ranch freeze in cold Bakersfield winters) as they are with gentling horses–or homeless veterans he’d taken in and so saved their lives.  There were at least sixty stories like his, one of the veterans told me.

 

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As is always the case, the humans weren’t the only ones present. Several dogs trotted up to the planting with the humans and looked for solace there, too, rubbing up against the friendly guests and nuzzling the ones who needed comfort. A pony whinnied in the distance without Billy there to see if he might be colicky. No fewer than four vintage Ford garden tractors, in various stages of repair or mortality, were a reminder of the briefness of life.

Bill’s girls talked about Dad and Grandpa (he was plain-spoken and cranky, soft-hearted and fiercely protective) the boys talked a little too, some of them in elongated Ozark Plateau vowels that I recognize almost instantly, once the warmth of my heart has relayed the sound to my brain, and then they took up shovels and mixed Billy’s ashes in the roots of a sycamore they were planting in a riverbank along the Kern, which straddles the ranch.

Given the now-giant sycamore planted nearby for Billy’s son, killed years ago in a tule-fog car wreck, this tree will be strong, like that boy was, and it’s on a little rise where Billy can look over the 250 horses he cared for so much.

My big sister put a little packet in the roots and I didn’t for a minute think of asking what that was about. My big sister was always so big to me and in the funeral’s aftermath I realized how small she is (so was my mother, another giant and powerful influence on my life.)

 

1127

My big sister is in the plaid shirt.

 

What her daughters and granddaughters did for my sister was perfect, too.

Roberta has a little girl, a border collie puppy not yet weaned from her own mother, coming to her late Christmas, and that’s is just what she wanted: Someone to take care of, the way she took care of us when our Mom died, the way she took care of Billy, the way Billy will always take care of her.

Once the boys had the tree seated and upright, secure and settled, they planed a pretty little well around it with the flats of their shovel blades and the soles of their boots. My brother-in-law’s funeral was awkward and wonderful, and in every way it was perfect.

 

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