Billy’s Funeral

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My brother-in-law’s funeral was awkward and wonderful. “Awkward” because Gregorys are both tightly-bond and distant–we don’t get together often– given childhoods marked by confusion, by alcohol and an unerring moral compass, by violence and inspired moments of love, by the imperative of survival and the depth of our pride in our parents, who remain the most singular and brilliant human beings I’ve ever known.

But we come together when we need to. We don’t talk much about what we feel for each other because proximity alone is so powerful. The pride we had in our parents is now manifest in the way we feel about each other: We are alive. We made it.

We didn’t know most of the people at Billy’s ceremony well, but the ones we remembered—sons and grandsons, soft-voiced and boulder-strong, beautiful daughters and granddaughters, blondes—came up to us without hesitating and embraced us.

These were the children my sister, Roberta, helped to raise as if they were her own.

All of them, boys and girls, children and grandchildren, no matter how hard the lives they’ve lived, are marked by a kind of bedrock integrity that Billy left for them, as if it were as genetic as brown eyes.

 

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You can’t help but love them.

The ones we didn’t remember weren’t relatives at all: they were cowboys Billy had hired –as skilled with a welding torch (the water-pipes on the ranch freeze in cold Bakersfield winters) as they are with gentling horses–or homeless veterans he’d taken in and so saved their lives.  There were at least sixty stories like his, one of the veterans told me.

 

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As is always the case, the humans weren’t the only ones present. Several dogs trotted up to the planting with the humans and looked for solace there, too, rubbing up against the friendly guests and nuzzling the ones who needed comfort. A pony whinnied in the distance without Billy there to see if he might be colicky. No fewer than four vintage Ford garden tractors, in various stages of repair or mortality, were a reminder of the briefness of life.

Bill’s girls talked about Dad and Grandpa (he was plain-spoken and cranky, soft-hearted and fiercely protective) the boys talked a little too, some of them in elongated Ozark Plateau vowels that I recognize almost instantly, once the warmth of my heart has relayed the sound to my brain, and then they took up shovels and mixed Billy’s ashes in the roots of a sycamore they were planting in a riverbank along the Kern, which straddles the ranch.

Given the now-giant sycamore planted nearby for Billy’s son, killed years ago in a tule-fog car wreck, this tree will be strong, like that boy was, and it’s on a little rise where Billy can look over the 250 horses he cared for so much.

My big sister put a little packet in the roots and I didn’t for a minute think of asking what that was about. My big sister was always so big to me and in the funeral’s aftermath I realized how small she is (so was my mother, another giant and powerful influence on my life.)

 

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My big sister is in the plaid shirt.

 

What her daughters and granddaughters did for my sister was perfect, too.

Roberta has a little girl, a border collie puppy not yet weaned from her own mother, coming to her late Christmas, and that’s is just what she wanted: Someone to take care of, the way she took care of us when our Mom died, the way she took care of Billy, the way Billy will always take care of her.

Once the boys had the tree seated and upright, secure and settled, they planed a pretty little well around it with the flats of their shovel blades and the soles of their boots. My brother-in-law’s funeral was awkward and wonderful, and in every way it was perfect.

 

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My weakness

 

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A G.I. and a medic from the First Infantry Division treat a dog wounded by shrapnel on D-Day, 1944.

Here is the deal: I understand this photo because it tells me why, other than the accident of birth, I am an American. The compassion of a medic with time enough to treat a dog (he would lose that luxury in the next few weeks, in the hedgerows of Normandy. Believe me.) is so obvious and so sweet that I can feel the moment seventy-five years later. Me feeling moments like this has been a lifelong curse. Sort of.

Even when I was a little boy, you could walk me into an abandoned house, and I could smell the meals that had been cooked there, flinch, even momentarily, at the family arguments that had buried themselves beneath peeling wallpaper and feel inchoate grief at the lives that had ended in bedrooms where the floorboards were now exposed.

When I visited Anne Frank’s home in Amsterdam with my students many years ago, what I could feel there–the palpable and powerful presence of the Frank family and the moment of terror at their betrayal—struck me into a silence that lasted a long time afterward.

I could never, ever understand why so many find history so boring.

Elizabeth and I took our boys, when they were little boys, to Gettysburg and we didn’t need a battlefield guide. I knew exactly where we were and what had happened there–from the bulldog resistance of Buford’s cavalry and their Sharps carbines on July 1 to the 20th Maine’s counterattack on Little Round Top on July 2–one of the most decisive moments in American history–to the marvel of Pickett’s division shaking out its columns into butternut lines of advance—the Union soldiers up on Cemetery Ridge marveled at the precision of their drill— across farm fields on July 3. Somehow, I saw all of these events as they happened and, thank God, was able to remember them for my sons.

I can’t tell you exactly why I feel a hard knot in my stomach when I see a Dorothea Lange photo of a Mexican migrant child in a Nipomo migrant camp. But I feel it just the same. Her knees are slightly knocked: That’s a symptom of rickets, a nutritional disease.

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I feel a flood of adrenaline that speeds my heartbeat when I see this photo, taken inside a USO in 1944, of a G.I. from Brooklyn jitterbugging with a young Japanese-American woman from Spokane. She is lovely. They are happy.

 

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I can understand a narrow walkup in Boyle Heights in Los Angeles and smell fresh-baked tortillas from 1938; understand a row Victorian in North Beach in San Francisco and hear the pop of squid on the fryer and see the richness of red marinara bubbling gently on a burner nearby. That meal was eaten by hungry fishermen in 1916.

 

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I can still see the line of Greyhound buses aligned in a semicircle in the high-school parking lot on Crown Hill on Arroyo Grande and the stacks of heirloom luggage stacked alongside as our Japanese-American neighbors say goodbye, in many cases with tearful hugs, to their neighbors as they prepare to board for the internment camps in April 1942.

 

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Wherever I go, there are field-workers working crops with a short-hoe—now outlawed in California—who have been dead for decades. There are lovely teenaged girls in saddle-shoes and bobby sox cradling their texts in the hallway of a high school that was demolished in 1961. There’s a P.E. coach full of masculine bluster, a trait that will serve him well as a football coach and as a leader of Marines, at least until the bluster bleeds out on the beach at Guam in 1944. There is the lifelong guilt of a mother whose toddler fell into the fireplace in 1904 while she was preparing pie crusts in the kitchen; not even Arroyo Grande’s venerable Doctor Clark could save her little girl. There is the incomparable moment in 1940 when a Swiss-Italian bride and groom turn proudly toward the congregation and walk down the nave of Mission San Luis Obispo with Mike the bell-ringer at work above them.

The problem is—and it’s a blessing, too, I guess—is that I can still hear the discordance of those bells, cast in Mexico in 1769. It’s the job of teachers to bring this sound, these smells, these sights, and these people, to life again. That is how you teach history.

The College Job

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I worked, for many years, while going through Cuesta and then the teaching credential program at Poly, for Russ and Rich Bullock, who owned Laguna Liquors, on the site of today’s Laguna Grill. I liked most of my college jobs: working for the Missouri journalism school in a work-study job, stocking groceries at night (we were “Night Stockers”), except when a fellow worker jacked a load of maple syrup too high and thirty cases came crashing down, working on the “wham-bang machine” at the 3M plant. 3M makes Scotch Tape. We were making guided missile parts.

But I liked Laguna Liquors the best.

My bosses, Russ and Rich were both born in the little red house at the very end of French (now Madonna) Road, and they were two of the best bosses I’ve ever had.

I was reminded of all this because I saw another favorite boss of mine, Randy Bullock, and his wife Barb this weekend.

Back then, in the 1970s, the liquor store was pretty much the only market in the area. We were also the local bank, where folks came in to write twenty-dollar checks, which was an immense amount of money back then.

We were also part-time and totally unqualified psychiatrists: we got to know everyone for blocks around with a drinking problem, a marriage problem, a kid problem, a job problem.

We did a lot of listening, and we were, most of us, anyway, just liquor-store clerks in our twenties.

We also had a lot of fun, which frequently involved post-hours runs down to the Laguna Village Inn or the Oak Room.

We were engulfed by two waves of children in the afternoons: one from C.L. Smith and the second from Laguna Middle School, who swarmed around the candy rack like angry badgers. We even sold Pop Rocks and–I still can’t stand him–Reggie Bars.

This is where, actually, I found out that I liked kids, which is a good thing, because I spent thirty years teaching high school and liked them just as much at the end of my career as I had at the liquor store.

The wave Sunday mornings at 7 a.m. was almost as bad as the candy rush on weekday afternoons. There were always grouchy elderly men, some of them in their carpet slippers, lined up waiting for us to open so they could have their massive Sunday editions of the L.A. Times or the San Francisco Examiner/Chronicle.

But I didn’t like it when you realized an older customer wasn’t coming back. The philosophical Fuller Brush salesman took his own life. The sweetheart lady you were never supposed to sell to died of cirrhosis anyway.

The salesmen and route men were fascinating. Chet the Chip Man was an old Arroyo Grande High Classmate; Bob the Bread Man was the fastest stocker I’d ever seen; Tim from All-American beverage was the courteous, kind man who would someday become my brother-in-law. Brownie the Whiskey Guy once beckoned us into the back room, shushed us as if he were the Manhattan Project, and and poured each of us a blended whiskey that was going to be the next big thing.

It was so interesting, to me, as a young fellow, to be so integrated into the life of a neighborhood. I liked Mr. G.D. Spradlin, the general who orders Martin Sheen into the jungle in “Apocalypse Now.” He smoked Lark 100s.

I liked the elderly British couple who came down from See Canyon and loaded a shopping cart with Swanson’s Frozen Fish and Chips.

I liked the Poly professors mostly but not the arrogant ones. (Why aren’t you at Yale, you jerk?)

I learned that the favored breakfast of house painters is beer and Dolly Madison doughnuts.

I hated Hallowe’en. How do you card someone who looks like Wolfman?

I liked the hippies, gently edging into middle age, who once came to protest Diablo Canyon. One of them said Willie Nelson was coming, but he didn’t show up at the liquor store. We were sad.

I loved–absolutely loved–Willie the Golfer, an immensely charismatic black man who discovered the sport at the little nine-hole Laguna course. Willie had forearms the size of hams, and I wondered when he hit the ball if he didn’t turn it into powder.

I liked Forrest the Southern Pacific guy but never, ever figured out why he bought Burgie beer, which was incredibly cheap and tasted a little like what I thought embalming fluid might taste like (Budweiser was $1.69 a six-pack, by the way).

I used to hide from some customers, like Bob the Sherry Drinker, who did a dead-on imitation of Sgt. Schultz from “Hogan’s Heroes” but then liked to ramble, a lot and pretty loud.

I liked to listen to Russ talk about growing up in San Luis Obispo and delivering Golden State Creamery milk to the Red Light girls. I liked to listen when the old-timers came in to tell old, stories and complain about the guvmint and/or the mule deer who ate their garbanzo beans.

So I did a lot of listening, and I learned empathy, and I learned history, and I became a history teacher which is, after all, about telling the stories you’ve learned and telling them well. Working in that liquor store was one of the most important parts of my education.

Why I like Aldi: It reminded me of Holland

 

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Okay, I went back to Aldi.

I found a shopping cart with the quarter wedged in the slot and used it for my shopping. I just got a few things this time, but Aldi’s starting to grow on me.

A nice lady showed me how to get my quarter back, and this one from an abandoned cart belonging to a complete stranger, so we’re all square, Aldi.

One of the items I bought was a really nice Dutch beer called “Holland 1839,” which was yummy. So was the white Dutch cheese I sprinkled liberally, melted, over the French bread I served with pasta tonight.

My students will recall how much I love Holland, thanks, in no small part, to Jan Vermeer. Here is his famous “Girl in a Pearl Earring on a KLM Flight Reading an Annual Report with Champagne.”

 

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When Ms. Derbidge and I took students to Holland, I fell crazy in love. I stood in front of Rembrandt’s “Night Watch” for about two days.

 

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I said “Hallo” to Rabobank in downtown Amsterdam, which is where ours came from. And I’m not bitter, even though it was my Dad who came up with the name “Mid-State Bank.”

 

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I marveled at the density of the bicycles, was nearly killed by two or more, including mothers on what are called “cargo bikes,” with up to four children bouncing happily in the bucket out front.

 

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“Laten we de toeristen overvallen, kinderen!”
(“Let’s run over the tourists, kids!”)

I whispered to Freddy Rolland, our tour guide: “Is it just me, or are Dutch women really, c288d95425d5b506f9c67305c7218248--bicycle-girl-bike-stylereally pretty?” Freddy laughed knowingly. Be careful. They’re on bicycles and could kill you in a heartbeat.

I loved the richness of Amsterdam’s Jewish heritage, and its heartbreak. Anne Frank’s movie-magazine cutout of the actress Myrna Loy–I loved her in The Thin Man with William Powell–is preserved under Plexiglas in the Upstairs Annex.

I gained a new and much deeper appreciation for Cheese. It is capitalized in Holland. As is the word “Cow.” They are the happiest Cows I have ever seen, and I know Cows, having been on a first-name basis with Daisy, my big brother’s 4-H heifer.

If there’s any city I would go back to in an instant, it’s probably in Italy. Amsterdam is the grand exception. So any grocery store that reminds me of that place is going to get my business.

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The Caravan and Captain Dreyfus

 

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The link above leads to a PowerPoint from an old lesson plan from the AP European History course I taught for nineteen years. The music, by the way, is from Thomas Newman’s incredible score for the film American Beauty.

As if you haven’t noticed, the current state of the nation worries me greatly, and daily, in my sleep and with my first coffee.

I haven’t got a handle on it yet.

Emotions today are as high as they were on the eve of the Civil War, when Rep. Preston Brooks of South Carolina nearly beat the abolitionist Sen. Charles Sumner of Massachusetts  to death on the Senate floor. (Sumner was a bit of a prig, by the way. Spielberg treats him with justifiable unkindness in Lincoln.)

But we aren’t as neatly divided geographically as we were in the Election of 1860. If you look at the electoral map for 2016, we’re two coasts interrupted by a continent, with Oklahoma its epicenter. We’re as isolated as what we used to call “Pakistan” and “East Pakistan” on the maps I studied in high school.

So the division isn’t conveniently geographic, as it was in Lincoln’s time. (Nothing else about Lincoln’s time was “convenient”.)

It’s instead deep inside our national spirit, and deep among ourselves.

The nearest comparison I could come up with, one similarly marked by fear of outsiders, of The Other—and, to be discussed some other time, by a deep fear of change— was not American. It was French.

It came from a conflict deferred from the Revolution, between tradition and modernity, between church and state, between advocates of  Blood and Soil and unaccepted national communities who were, ironically, passionately French.

There was no civil war in France. They’d already had revolutions in 1789. 1830, 1848 and 1870, so they subsumed their passions until 1894, when The Dreyfus Affair set them aflame again.

The Affair revealed a spiritual sickness, like ours, that tore the French nation apart. It tore Renoir and Monet apart. The cartoon about a French family dinner struck me as especially relevant to America today.

What I learned about the destruction of French comity has been made fresh again in my time, in the exploitation of a “caravan” of refugees fleeing from nations in Central America that have become nightmares. These are refugees funded, “many people say,” by nefarious Zionists. Like George Soros.

In reality, they’re fleeing from homes made strange and deadly by gangs, fat ticks engorged by our appetite for drugs, and from death squads directed by Central American officer-graduates from the old School of the Americas at Fort Benning, Georgia.

For my Trump-supporting friends: Do the research.

Somehow, thanks to presidential innuendo and sanctuary walls perforated by .223 rounds, we have woven anti-Semitism into what was already a story tragic enough to fill yards of dusty and unexplored library shelves at Cal or Princeton.

Our story, like the one in Dreyfus’s France, has a similar element: we’re blissfully unaware of history and of our own historical power. We haven’t read the books.

We exert, for example, an immense gravitational pull on Central America. I’m  reminded of Titanic’s screws turning for the first time inside the harbor at Southampton; the powerful current they generated nearly sucked harbor boats to their destruction beneath the great, and doomed, ocean liner.

The Mexican poet Octavio Paz got this idea precisely once:

“Poor Mexico,” he said. “So far from God, so close to the United States.”

So our current fear of refugees and the implicit but insistent rumors about the Jewish plot to fund them reminded me of the old fear of The Other, and of the Dreyfus Affair, which I’ll never understand completely.

The closest anyone can come to understanding the Dreyfus Affair, I think, is to read Barbara Tuchman’s treatment of the case in her masterful book The Proud Tower.

Even after reading Tuchman, my favorite historian, when I taught this lesson about The Affair, I thought it peculiarly and quaintly French.

I stand corrected.

 

 

The Supremes, 1965

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I made a severe mistake, a few hours ago, in bringing up Girl Groups in an otherwise splendid Facebook post on chili beans and cornbread.

I then compounded that mistake by frittering away some perfectly good weeding and/or cleaning time looking at old videos of The Ronettes, The Crystals, The Shirelles and Martha Reeves and the Vandellas. Sigh!

The undisputed queens of the genre, of course, were the Supremes. If the Supremes (or the Beatles or Petula Clark) were on The Ed Sullivan Show Sunday nights in 1964 or 1965, all activity in our home, with the exception of minimal breathing activity, ceased.

My Mom adored Diana Ross (and Ringo, by the way). I concurred on Diana, of course. But the most frankly sexy of the three, in my fervid thirteen-year-old imagination, was Flo, the Supreme on the left. She had the most captivating smile and when she looked directly into the camera I turned into a pile of goo. Flo was fictionalized as the tragic member of the group in Dreamgirls; she left the Supremes in 1967 because real life is tragic, too.

It happened, I guess, in part because Diana Ross’s eyelashes were so long and her ego was so big.

But none of that mattered when they were on Sullivan. That shimmy at the start of this performance, for example, was devastating, and Diana was enchanting.

Only The Supremes could transmute a song about infidelity into something so…well, I guess ‘joyful’ is the word. And, yes, it mattered that they were black and from Detroit. They were so beautiful and, thanks to the magic of our Zenith color television, they were singing to us and they were in our living room with us. The barrier between us, between their lives and ours, was seemingly dissolved.

We welcomed, then, the illusion that we knew the Supremes; of course, I went a bit beyond that and fell in love with them.

You couldn’t take your eyes off Diana Ross.

And when a song like this came on the radio, you couldn’t stop the acceleration of your pulse the instant you recognized the opening notes. You missed it the instant it was done.

Boys and their dogs

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One of the most wonderful discoveries I made while researching the “Aviators” book was learning how much young American fliers loved their dogs—in the records of the American Air Museum in Britain, the best resource for the American Eighth Air Force, lovingly and meticulously kept by our historian friends across the sea, a dog’s nationality is officially listed as “British.”

I was reminded, too, of how young these men were–the average age of a B-17 or B-24 pilot was twenty-two. There were waist gunners as young as sixteen.

When you are that young, you have reason to live.

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You want to get home. After twelve or fourteen hours in the air, where breathing and urinating and speaking, in unpressurized cabins at 25,000 feet where the temperature is twenty degrees below zero, are all encumbered. The discomfort is broken up by moments of unimaginable terror when you watch your friends’ airplanes break up in the air or you stop breathing to listen to anti-aircraft shrapnel—called “flak,” from a German word too serpentine to pronounce—hit your own plane. Flak sounds like dense hail on a tin roof. Some of it will sever throttle cables or hydraulic lines, or, far worse, some of it will kill friends even closer than the ones you watch falling so slowly to earth. There is nothing you can do about flak.

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You want it to be over. You want to get home to the one friend who will still be there for you.

 

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The historian for one B-17 group, the 92nd, provided me with my favorite find: She told me that the ground crews remembered that an airman’s dog would become excited and happy at a mission’s end at the moment when the animal recognized the distinctive pitch of his or her master’s B-17 engines.

No greater love.

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The pretty girl in her prom dress, Camp Cooke, 1944

This is one of my favorite photos from the Central Coast Aviators in World War II book, and I got a little more insight into it today. These young women were more than likely USO guests of the Army Air Forces cadets at Hancock Field, Santa Maria, the site of today’s Hancock College. I see at least two girls–one of them looks a little like Betty Grable–with whom I would’ve fallen in love more or less instantly.

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The poignant part is in the caption. For every American infantryman killed in World War II, three were wounded.

For every American airman wounded in World War II, three were killed.

I was giving a talk today in Grover Beach on Central Coast Aviators to the volunteers at the Five Cities Food Bank, who, by the way, lay out a lunch to rival any of my grandmother’s, and I noticed, during the talk, an older woman looking at me narrowly. I thought I was bombing, so I didn’t look at her for fear of breaking out in the flop sweat so familiar to standup comedians.

I was wrong.

She came up to me after the talk and told me that she’d lived in Los Angeles during the War, and she was part of a USO visit to Camp Cooke, today’s Vandenberg Space Force base. In her time, in World War II, it had been a US Army armored training base, and she was one of the young women, densely chaperoned and caravaned north in Greyhound buses, who would visit the GIs, training to become tank crewmen, courtesy of the USO.

“We had dinner with them, and we went out to a dance, and then we went to church with them. And they were so happy to see us–I had a marvelous time!” Then she bought a book.

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Before you think I’ve gone all soft in the head, I’m well aware that wartime was not an Andy Hardy movie. Illegitimacy skyrocketed, and so did juvenile delinquency. And one of the civilian workers at Camp Cooke–voted a “Camp Cooke Cutie” in the camp newspaper in 1944–was Elizabeth Short (below), the “Black Dahlia” murder victim three years later, which proves, sadly, that a tradition of trivializing women, and of brutalizing them, goes deep in American culture.

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The doomed Elizabeth Short.

This woman’s experience was, thank God, vastly different, yet it was the same one I’d heard from a veteran Santa Maria Times reporter, Karen White, who once told me that her big sister went to USO dances at Camp San Luis Obispo. She, too had a marvelous time.

(As a high school history teacher, one of the best proms I ever chaperoned, when my wife and I taught at Mission Prep in San Luis Obispo, was at the Camp SLO Officers’ Club. The place is alive with the presence of officers and officers’ wives or fiancés from back home—they would’ve endured unbelievably uncomfortable wartime train trips—come all the way to California, from a long, long time ago. You can sense them there, sense the vitality of young lives interrupted. I remember feeling somehow comforted by the closeness of them. I’ve heard others talk about the same feelings I had.)

The graduation dances for Navy fliers who’d completed preflight training at Cal Poly—3,000 did during the war, while the civilian student population fell to eighty–had a special touch because the chaperone who brought the young women to Poly was none other than Mrs. Edward G. Robinson. It made sense, Edward G. had been a Navy man in the First World War, long before he became Scarface, long before Fred McMurray poured out his lifeblood and his murder confession to Edward G. in Double Indemnity.


Mr. and Mrs. Robinson.

So I was gifted today with story of a woman who went to a dance with young soldiers seventy-five years ago. For just the briefest of moments, she was, in my imagination and in her memory, a teenager again.

What a blessing.

A wartime dance at the Black USO, San Luis Obispo; some of these GIs may belong to the 54th Coast Artillery, with batteries guarding Avila and Estero Bays. Courtesy Erik Brun

Grandma Gregory’s mashed taters

1929425_1124466835622_1897147_nMy grandmother, Dora Gregory, about 1910, and I made tonight’s dinner—oven-fried chicken and mashed potatoes—thinking of her. Her fried chicken, although I only had it a few times, was divine. It was what I’d call Border State Fried rather than Southern Fried—no batter, but the pieces sprinkled with top-secret seasonings and then coated in flour.

I remember that there would be a bunch of salads–macaroni and fruit, I think, and one made with hominy, and vegetable casseroles, with green beans a favorite, liberally flavored with bacon, sweet potatoes laced with butter and brown sugar—it’s a wonder I’m not dead yet.

(There would also have been, irrelevant as it may seem, sliced ham. Her ham deserves a whole separate post. Her husband, my grandfather John, raised hogs; slaughtering, curing and smoking happened in winter and whole families would participate, moving from one neighbor’s Ozark Plateau farm to another until all the hams were hung. It would’ve been a dreadful time of year to be a hog.)

Of course, Grandmother’s crowning glory, and even the chicken took a little bit of a back seat, was her mashed potatoes, fluffy as clouds. The chicken cracklings and their lubricant would be turned, through some kind of sorcery, into flour gravy ladled over the potatoes, with a little crater in their midst. But I thought that since her mashed potatoes were so good, the gravy was better used over biscuits.

(I like to think that my grandmother would love my mashed taters. Here they are.)

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This was in Taft, so it must have been insufferably hot to cook.

The older men ate with linen napkins tucked into their shirt collars; finger-licking was forgiven. All that food would be washed down with iced tea and then the men would take naps while the women kept working.

Many of the men, of course, would someday die of coronary arrest. So it goes.

Then there was dessert. Some of those men, in their last moments, dreamed of lemon meringue pie. That may have been the vision that got them over to the Other Side.

 

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My Tudor Grandmother

I’ve friends in places like Edinburgh, Assisi and Dublin right now, so it’s kind of stoking that bittersweet urge to travel.

Here’s one place I’d like to see–oddly enough, because it’s such an anomaly, this little 14th-century church, set as it is in a part of modern London that’s all steel and glass and deeply unattractive. But it’s homely, too, with an afterthought of a cupola, built without much thought to its place in architectural history.

St. Giles-without-Cripplegate, a name that befuddles etymologists, is where my ninth great-grandmother Lady Elizabeth Gelsthorpe Gregory, was buried in 1585. Her husband, Sir John, a mere comma in English genealogy, was from Nottinghamshire, not far from where they found the little cache of bones that belonged to Richard III, with the deep puncture wound, inflicted post-mortem at Bosworth Field, in the royal rear end.

But that was far before Lady Elizabeth’s time.

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Nope. Her time belonged to this Elizabeth, the granddaughter of Henry VII, the victor at Bosworth. This is her coronation portrait.

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What an exciting–and fearful–time to be alive for Lady Elizabeth Gelsthorpe Gregory. The year she was born, Henry VIII declared himself the head of the English Church. When she was five, Thomas More was beheaded.

A girl growing up faced a future nearly as bleak as More’s. (More’s dutiful daughter, Meg, fetched his head–it’d been parboiled to more or less preserve it– down from its spike atop London Bridge, wrapped in it soft linen, and reunited it with the rest of her father.) She was a rarity, Meg More, because she could read and write and speak fluent Latin and passable Greek; even a daughter from a prominent family like the Gelsthorpes would have had just enough learning, including music lessons, to make her marriageable with not a lesson beyond.

At puberty, Lady Elizabeth would’ve been enshrouded in clothing almost as barbaric as the not-yet-invented whalebone corset:  linen petticoat surmounted by a stiffened bodice, or kirtle, that mashed the breasts and stifled breathing and then, over that, the gown–for noblewomen, made of dense and elaborate fabric (velvet, or even cloth of gold for prospective noble marriages); the gown would’ve been nearly as heavy as the chains sported by Marley’s ghost. English or French hoods–the latter, Anne Boleyn’s innovation–covered most of a woman’s head. Lady Elizabeth, like most Tudor women, grew up in a cocoon.

She didn’t take long to grow up. She was fifteen when she was married, in the middle of the reign of Henry’s successor Edward VI, the little prig. It appears that she went to the altar pregnant with what would turn out to be a baby boy. This was quite common to the times, a story the parish registers tell us from all the weddings followed scant months later by all the christenings.  (Anne Boleyn was heavily and obviously pregnant, like a lower-case letter “b”– or “d,” depending on which way she was facing–when she married Henry VIII.)

Meanwhile, Lady Elizabeth lost that son two years after Mary Tudor became queen. She was twenty-five. Her son was named Thomas; he had just turned eleven. She would would lose another son three years before Elizabeth acceded and her husband three years afterward. A third son would survive her by just two years.

It was a heartbreaking life, made moreso because it was a time bereft of spiritual sureness, what with the Bible whipsawing back and forth between Latin and English and smaller armadas of bishops–High Church, Low Church–taking their turns as kindling, burned at the stake. (More traditional English believers were so incensed by the Bible translator Wycliffe that burned him at the stake forty years after he’d died.)

So she must have spent much of her life holding her breath and mumbling her prayers, the way the Lollards did.  Something in you wants to comfort her, which will have to wait, of course.

Here she is in the 1585 parish register:

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Three years later the Armada would be blown clear ’round England to wreck on rocks far to the north, off Scotland and Ireland. I wish my Lady Elizabeth Gelsthorpe Gregory could’ve lived to have heard news like that. We Gregorys have a fondness for underdogs. This was the speech Queen Elizabeth delivered to her troops awaiting the Armada and its army, beautifully interpreted by the actress Anne-Marie Duff in the BBC series The Virgin Queen.


Thirty-five years after Lady Elizabeth’s death, Oliver Cromwell would be married in St. Giles.

Eighty-nine years after, John Milton would be buried here.

(She would’ve been incensed, I bet, when, In 1940, St. Giles was set afire in the Blitz.)

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And about fifty years later, her great-grandson, John Gregory, an immigrant from Nottinghamshire, would be a member of the vestry in this little church, St. Mary’s Whitechapel, in Lancaster County, Virginia, the parish of Washington’s mother. (Another Gregory would marry Washington’s Aunt Mildred, a name that has persisted for generations in my family, despite its homeliness, and cede Mt. Vernon to the future president’s family. Do not take real-estate advice from anybody named “Gregory.”)

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We had arrived. More or less. Mostly less. Here’s why:

Washington County, Kentucky, of course, was named for the great man. And in the 1850 Kentucky census, here are the slaves owned by Godfrey Gregory, my second great-grandfather. He was, by Kentucky standards, a wealthy man. The slaves have no names in the census, a convenience that made them emotionally as well as legally disposable.

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I have no way, of course, of knowing this would be so, but I like to think Lady Elizabeth Gregory would have boxed Godfrey Gregory’s ears. Life is cruel enough. She would’ve had little patience in the practiced cruelty and the hypocrisy that were slavery’s bedrock.