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The joys of sheltering in place

27 Monday Jul 2020

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Don’t get me wrong. Covid-19 is horrific, and I’d have to go back 700 years to find its equivalent. But …

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Farmworkers

24 Friday Jul 2020

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Adapted from the book World War II Arroyo Grande

The Upper Arroyo Grande Valley, where I grew up.

…Just east of Old Arroyo, farm fields also bordered the house where I grew up during the 1950s and 1960s. With my big brother, I walked through them on my way to school, past men cultivating crops with el cortito, the “short hoe”—backbreaking work with a tool that would be outlawed in 1974. The soil of these fields is rich and loamy, alluvial deposits that are the gift of the Arroyo Grande Creek, which flows into the Pacific Ocean seven miles from its origins in the Santa Lucia Mountains.

During my childhood, the creek was my playground. My friends and I fished for rainbow trout in little eddies and in a beaver pond adjacent to farmer Kazuo Ikeda’s cabbages. In fact, steelhead trout still swam upstream to spawn; they are now gone this far south in California. I hooked one once when I was eleven, and the shock of the big fish hitting and then fighting made me nearly drop my pole. I had never seen anything quite so beautiful and so violent—so determined to escape and to live. She did both.

It was earning a living that absorbed my father; a brilliant man with a gift for numbers, he became an accountant who was determined that his children would not suffer anything like the poverty he’d seen among his neighbors in the Ozark foothills during the Great Depression. Beyond that, he was determined that they would all get a college education. His mother, our grandmother Gregory, had been a rural schoolmarm. My education began with two severe but gifted women at the two-room Branch Elementary School, another rural school, with some seventy-odd students in grades one through eight.

Though our teachers dressed like the women in Grant Woods’s Daughters of the American Revolution, they had none of the insipid smugness of Wood’s subjects. These women were teachers because they had the calling; their lives had purpose. Each had to choreograph teaching six subjects to four grades—first through fourth in one room, fifth through eighth in the other— and so they ran a tight ship. We would learn their way, a requirement for which, many years later, I would be deeply grateful.

My first teacher, however, was my mother, and she was remarkable. Her childhood had been a hard one. She grew up poor. Her ne’er-do-well Irish father deserted the family when she was a toddler in an oil boomtown, Taft, just over the county line. When I was very little, we played school. She even rang a hand bell—it had been Grandmother Gregory’s—when “recess” was over. On my first day of formal education, I remember realizing, with a little shock of pleasure, that I could read the names of my classmates as our teacher, Mrs. Brown, wrote them on the blackboard.

One lesson appeared to my mother in the form of a Mexican fieldworker, a bracero, who one day walked into our front yard and up to her. She kept her garden shears at port arms and shoved me behind her skirts. The man signaled that he wanted to fill an empty wine gallon jug with water for himself and his friends, who were working the pepper field adjacent to our pasture. His face, with a tiny Cantínflas mustache, radiated good humor. My mother relaxed and filled the jug from her garden hose. The water was cold. I knew that because of what she said next.

“Now, help him carry it back.”

My mother and my bis sister, Roberta, about 1943.

So I did. And I stayed awhile. These men worked for George Shannon, a man of immense warmth, and on later visits to their barracks at Shannon’s farm—it smelled of earth and Aqua Velva and laundry soap—I learned a little Spanish from the braceros. They spread snapshots across their bunks of wives and girlfriends and children, and they laughed when I tried out  my new words in their language. That encounter would lead to my college studies’ focus, the history of Mexico and Latin America.

Year later, a Spanish professor—I am ashamed at how much of the language I’ve forgotten– at my Midwestern college took me aside after class and told me this:

“Mr. Gregory, you have a pronounced Mexican accent.”

It was one of the finest compliments I’ve ever received.


In the early summer of 1944—when Gen. Dwight Eisenhower receives his weather officer’s report for June 6 and says simply, “OK, we’ll go,” when Rome falls to Mark Clark’s armies and when horrified marines watch Japanese civilians leap to their deaths from the cliffs of Saipan—the war, for Americans at home, was both distant and, for grieving families, painfully intimate, but even the war could not touch the work to be done.

That month, in the upper Arroyo Grande Valley of coastal California, this is what you would see, possibly through the dense, cold morning fog: labor contractors drop off pickup loads of fieldworkers at the Harris Bridge, which spans the creek that nourishes and gives the valley its name.

The workers cross the bridge whistling, an incredibly beautiful, almost baroque whistling of Mexican folk tunes from the time of the revolution or love songs, as they walk down to the fields to their work with their lunches— wine jugs filled with drinking water and perhaps chorizo-and-egg burritos wrapped in wax paper, fuel for the kind of physical work that would make most men sit in the freshly turned field gasping within fifteen minutes and woefully regarding their quickly blistered hands.

Row crops, Upper Arroyo Grande Valley

Their summer work might be in a new bean field, where the whistling would eventually stop because it is such a tax on men who work hard, whose breathing soon becomes laborious and therefore precious. To begin a newly planted field of beans, the fieldworkers have to drive wooden stakes into precise parade-ground lines along the furrows, so that the bean vines can use the stakes to climb and twist—they will eventually bear delicate, bell-shaped flowers that stretch toward the sun. The sun invariably appears in late morning, when it burns the sea fog away, and the colors of the valley— wheaten hills and verdant bottomland where the crop is in—are reborn, vivid and sharply focused.

To drive the wooden stakes, the fieldworkers use a heavy metal tube, a driver, with a handle attached that resembles that of an old-time pump primer that nineteenth-century settlers used to draw water from the ground. So the whistling stops and is replaced by the rhythmic ring of the stake drivers as the workers pound hundreds of stakes into the field.

It is a musical sound. But of course, what you cannot hear are the grunts of the men at each stroke of the stake driver; what you cannot feel is the enormous weight that exhausted arms and shoulders soon take on; and what you cannot avoid, if you think about it sensibly, is admiration for the men who feed you.


Since World War II, agriculture here has changed—pole beans and the seemingly limitless groves of walnut trees that once competed with row crops are gone, the latter victims of a malevolent infestation of insect larvae. Today, farmers grow more exotic crops, like bok choy and kale, and along the hillsides given over to beef cattle as far back as the beginning of the nineteenth century, there are new farmers and new rows of wine grapes, profitable, lovely and greedy for water—a commodity that isn’t plentiful in California—multiplying every year. The beef cattle haven’t dominated the coastal hills since the 1860s, when the drought that periodically afflicts the state hit as hard as it ever has. The cattle, either killed outright by ravenous coyotes or mountain lions come down from distant folds in the hills or dead of thirst and hunger, would have covered the hills with their bones.

It was that kind of drought that may have brought a fieldworker, whose family had lived for generations in New Mexico, to these coastal valleys in 1940. Much of his native state in the years before had been swept away by the Dust Bowl. Winds had carried the copper-red soil as far east as the Mid- Atlantic to drop it, like gritty rain from a place that had none, onto ships still sailing freely between continents.

The German U-boat U-576 leaves harbor. She was later sunk with all hands off North Carolina.

Those ships would lose their freedom in the years immediately after, and the coyotes that hunted them without fear were U-boats come out    of their lairs in Kiel and later in Lorient. U-boat captains called this the “Happy Time.” The U-boats would someday kill that young fieldworker, if indirectly, as part of an inexorable chain of events that would lead him to Normandy, so far away from the fields that border Arroyo Grande Creek, and to pastures bound by hedges and grazed by fat dairy cows, cows that lowed piteously to be milked in what had become killing zones. One of them, dead in the crossfire, may have provided scant cover from the German machine guns that harvested crops of young men for fieldworker, now rifleman, Private Domingo Martinez.

A German artillery shell killed Pvt. Martinez near Bolleville, Normandy. He lies in the American Cemetery above Omaha Beach.

Suffer the little children

19 Sunday Jul 2020

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I am constantly amazed by the hardships of frontier life in our county. Infant and child mortality statistics were horrific: Mr. and Mrs. William Dana of Rancho Nipomo lost 11 of their 21 children, a statistic comparable, a century before, to Johann Sebastian Bach’s family. One little girl, named for Dana’s sister, must have been especially beloved. Adeline is buried in the sanctuary wall of Mission San Luis Obispo.

It’s pretty clear that the Danas adored their children. [And that Mr. Dana adored his wife, Josephine Carrillo de Dana. When the gentlemen adjourned after dinner for brandy and cigars—this is how Dana might’ve heard the news of the 1848 gold strike at Sutter’s Mill— she, like many Californio women, joined them.] One story has another daughter climbing up to the little cupola of the family adobe, sited on one of the most beautiful spots in the county, to direct one of the rancho’s vaqueros to rope for her the horse she wanted to ride that day.

Another Dana, a little boy, hasn’t left Rancho Nipomo. Docents and volunteers still see him from time to time: he’s solid and real but his visits are very brief.

Deaths like these among the Dana family came at a time when, thanks largely to better diet, infant and child mortality among the middle classes of Europe and America was declining rapidly. We would be shocked at the detachment between parents and their children in the centuries before the Victorian Era (Francis Branch, Arroyo Grande’s founder and William Dana’s friend, came to the Valley in 1837, the same year that Victoria ascended the throne.) That detachment was a function of mortality among children: Parents could not afford to invest emotionally in children who were likely to die.

By the 1860s, that had changed. It’s macabre to us, but by then photography was common enough so that affluent parents who’d lost a little girl or boy paid to have them photographed. They weren’t willing to let them go.

In the summer of 1862, Francis Branch, by now the wealthiest man in the county, with tens of thousands of acres as his portfolio, was away on business in San Francisco when one of Rancho Santa Manuela’s vaqueros found him and told him that a traveler passing through had brought smallpox to the ranchero’s family.

Francis Branch was a pragmatic Yankee from Scipio, New York, Small, spare, wiry, he was possessed of enormous energy and, despite the image here, a good sense of humor, even when the joke was on him. His wife, Manuela, was from Santa Barbara. She rode home to deliver one baby rather than have it in the wilderness of Arroyo Grande. In 1886, when a father and son were lynched from the PCRR trestle at the base of Crown Hill, they were refused a Christian burial in the town cemetery. Manuela offered them a place in the same graveyard where she’d buried her husband and children.


Branch rode hard—the man must have been desperate—to get home to his wife, Manuela, and his children. By the time he got to Santa Manuela (the ranch house was sited on a hilltop just below today’s Branch School) two of his girls were dead and a third died soon after. They ranged in age from five to sixteen.

The decaying Branch Adobe in a 1913 watercolor. The damage to it had begun with the massive 1857 Fort Tejon earthquake. From the Autry Museum of Western History.


The next year, a drought came that killed thousands of Branch’s cattle. He lost the modern equivalent of eight million dollars.

Bad as it was, the drought wasn’t the central tragedy of Branch’s life.

Next to his big tombstone in the family graveyard are the smaller tombstones of the three daughters. Branch died eight years after the smallpox had come to the big adobe atop the hill. When his family laid the great man to rest, they made sure he was close to his little girls.

My (very short) Journey through French Cinema

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Filmmaker Barry Galperin.

One of the great joys of my teaching career was getting approached by this young man when he was a junior at Arroyo Grande High School. He had the sheer audacity—the kind that’s required of directors—to ask me to design a high school semester course in film history.

Which I did, because it was Barry’s idea, which made it an honor.

I once designed a course in Cultural Anthropology, so this was only my second attempt at inventing a class from scratch. But the Grand Poobahs at UC Berkley approved that course and, to my delight, they approved this one, too.

Designing the film course took me a long time, but I don’t much mind creating things. The only sadness was that I didn’t have room on my schedule to teach it—or to watch again films ranging from Chaplin’s The Gold Rush to Preston Sturges’ Easy Living (I have a great fondness for the actress Jean Arthur, who also finds James Stewart’s courage for him in Mr. Smith Goes to Washington) to John Ford’s The Searchers to Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner.

But I was pretty proud of myself—almost but not nearly as much as I am of Barry, a now-seasoned professional who directs and writes screenplays. He is possessed of immense courage.

Last night, I had an immense and badly-needed dose of humility. I was merely channel-surfing when—damn you, PBS!—I tuned in, midway, into a three-hour documentary from 2016, My Journey through French Cinema, about the critic Bertrand Tavernier.

No, I had no idea who he was.

The film was subtitled, but the French the narrators spoke bore no resemblance to the proper names I was reading in the subtitles. I was always sorry that I did not take French in my years as an AGHS student. The teacher, Mrs. Koehn, was enormously attractive to us teenaged boys. She took to driving a convertible MG at high speed in her later years, which endeared her to me in a whole new way when she became my teaching colleague.

But this documentary cured me of learning French. I could never force my American mouth to make sounds like that.

That’s not the point. The point that was brought home to me was how little I actually know about film.

The scenes they selected took my breath away—I don’t know enough yet to connect the scenes with their films—but I saw an interior scene with both the camera and three characters in constant motion until a lovely young woman suddenly uses a bottle to bludgeon her older lover unconscious. I saw another man die in a rollover car accident shot from both outside and inside the car, punctuated, at its end, by a surviving tire in its rim careening across the road. There were criminal escapes through tunnels and sudden screaming matches between couples who only seemed comfortably married and a Paris street scene with two young women chanting casually amid the sidewalk crowds they pass, while heads turn in their passage. There were exterior scenes, young couples walking beneath trees and holding hands in dappled sunlight, that would’ve made Renoir weep. There was a sudden and violent street robbery, shot in Milan with a hidden camera, in front of a shocked crowd who would learn only much later that they’d been film extras.

There was Belmondo, an ultra-cool alloy of Bogart and Paul Newman.

There were, of course, entire Gauloises assembly lines of cigarettes smoked.

Bertrand Tavernier

I watched all of this without breathing too much. It was a wonderful humbling to realize how much you don’t know.

It was touching to feel your heart melt a little in watching the actress Corinne Marchand, her character doomed by cancer, sing as she descends a staircase in one of Hausmann’s Paris parks in a scene, filmed so gracefully, and sixty years ago, that it makes you fall in love with her.

It was exciting to know that I, even at sixty-eight, have so many films yet to watch, and that they are gifts from the French.

I spent most of my life dismissive of the French, in the American manner, until my students and I, ten years ago, took a trip across northern France where the Americans and Germans had left behind a path of destruction, in 1944 and 1945, from Carentan to Metz. In the ferocity of the fighting, entire towns were reduced to splinters by bombers and shellfire and in Norman pasturelands, GI’s took scant cover in the shelter of dairy cows, their udders still filled with milk, who’d been butchered by machine-gun fire.

We were typical tourists on our trip sixty-five years after that terrible war—in European history, that’s a hiccup— when the Frenchwoman, on discovering that we were Americans, insisted on giving us a tour of St Joan’s cathedral at Reims. She was insistent precisely because we were Americans.

This was the trip when I learned to love France and the French.

This was the trip where we visited the 1916 battlefield at Verdun. Verdun will cure you forever of the myth, broadcast by simpletons, that the French are cowards. The battle lasted nine months. The taking of one fortress—Douaumont—took 100,000 lives.

There is a vast ossuary beneath the Verdun Memorial. You can see, just below plexiglas panels, enormous stacks of the bones of French and German soldiers. These are the macabre remains of a generation of young men who were lost forever to their parents. And to us.

An attendant took me aside as we toured the Memorial. “Your students are so respectful,” she whispered to me.

So that moment, and the visit to Reims, cured me forever of the belief that the French are cold people. The woman who guided us through the cathedral was so immensely proud that she was French and so immensely happy that we were Americans.

My homework, for her, will be watching the French New Wave. Merci, my friend.

How teachers plan

07 Tuesday Jul 2020

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When I was in the garage today, I found a stack of my old lesson plan books. These represent about half the books from my teaching career.
But planning happens in stages. First, you plan the quarter.
And then you plan the month.
And then the unit, in this case, two units from European history, structured around the assigned readings. The lesson will usually augment or expand the homework readings, which they read. Sometimes.
Now you’re ready for the weekly plans. These are what you find in the plan book. Each block (the top is vertical; the bottom horizontal) represents a “prep,” or academic class. I usually had two preps at AGHS; at a smaller school, like Mission, I usually had three and once I had four.
All that planning has to take into account a multitude of interruptions. This is the schedule for the old state STAR tests, which took up several days. There was also the CAHSEE test in the fall, for sophs (two days), hearing and vision check days, fire drills, accidental fire drills, when the alarm went off by itself (once because of burnt churros in an office microwave), active shooter drills (always depressing) and the never-to-be missed Josten’s Ring Presentation.
You always want the lesson’s objectives up on the whiteboard or TV monitor. This was a fun lesson, but right after the socialism review, I introduced them to German Romanticism with the scene from Bambi where Mother is uh…ah…ooh…you know. They Cowboys saved the lesson. Germans love cowboys.
Lesson plans vary. Sometimes you’ve got it in your head and just need an outline. This one involved quiet individual reading, then group work in analyzing the charts and finally group participation in helping each other to sound “Cockney.” All of this in fifty minutes. I enjoyed this lesson. I think they did, too.
Intro every unit an assessment must fall. Sometimes they’re fun, like a performance assessment–I loved the 1920s newspaper they did and Mr. Huss had an oral history assessment that involved an AGHS junior interviewing an older person. I became one of those, eventually. On the left is the review for an American Lit test, from Mission; on the right a Modern World History test, from AGHS. More traditional assessments.
For European History, here’s one version of the First World War test.
Stack of test essays; they usually came in batches of seventy; I could grade about five an hour. Nothing compared to what English teachers have to do, though.
Kids. Charlie and me at graduation (he became a firefighter, which makes me very proud of him); classroom activities. It is NOT true that I referred to them as “varmints.” Okay. Maybe a couple of times.

Little Place. Big History

29 Monday Jun 2020

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Arroyo Grande, California; my home town, about 1905.
Local rancheros were fundamental to New England’s antebellum shoe industry; cattle were raised for their hides, the raw material that drove shoe factories in Massachusetts.
California’s first notorious mass murder was in December 1848 at Mission San Miguel. The man who found the bodies was a mail rider who’d started his route in Nipomo. He reported it to a young army officer in Monterey: Future Civil War general William T. Sherman.
Nearly sixty Civil War veterans are buried in our cemetery. This Arroyo Grande farmer was a young soldier in the 95th Ohio Infantry when he seized a Confederate battle flag at the Battle of Nashville.
Bela Clinton ide was a gentle man. He built the oldest extant home in Arroyo Grande, on Ide Street, in 1878. Twenty-five years before, 363 of the 496 men in his infantry regiment were killed or wounded in a twenty-minute firefight at Gettysburg.
James Dowell was a young cavalryman in a tragicomic expedition to the Powder River Country in the summer and fall of 1865. He somehow survived attacks by Red Cloud, Sitting Bull, Roman Nose and Crazy Horse. The expedition made it back to Fort Laramie on foot. They’d survived starvation by eating their mounts.
The Meiji Emperor, shown here in the film The Last Samurai, began the modernization of Japan in 1867, at a price: ruinous land taxes. Thousands of Japanese were forced to emigrate; the Saruwatari family, whose home still stands off Halcyon Road, may have been the first to move here.
The image on the left shows Al Capone waiting his turn to shoot pool at Pismo Beach’s Waldorf Club in 1927, from Effie McDermott’s history of Pismo Beach. The Central Coast was notorious for Capone’s bootlegging. Today, the Waldorf Club is the Cool Cat Cafe.
In her autobiography, aviatrix Harriet Quimby claimed she’d been born and raised in Arroyo Grande. That was a small fib. The other one was her losing a decade in age. She was from Michigan, but her family had lived in Arroyo Grande briefly before she started her journalism career. The first woman to fly across the English channel, her flying career ended tragically with a crash into Boston Harbor in 1912. She had nonetheless inspired a little Iowa girl who wanted to fly: Amelia Earhart is shown visiting Cal Poly in 1936, the year before she disappeared.
The head of the New Deal’s Soil Conservation Service said the erosion of the hillsides from Arroyo Grande to Shell Beach was among the worst he’d seen in America. The corrective was the Civilian Conservation Corps, two hundred-plus young men from New York, New Jersey and Delaware, whose barracks stood on the site of today’s Arroyo Grande Women’s Club. The young men, aged 18-25, earned $27 a month. They were expected to send half of that home.
Clark Gable and Joan Crawford stayed at this Pismo Beach hotel while filming the 1940 release Strange Cargo. During a break in shooting, Gable played a pickup game of softball on the beach with teens from San Luis Obispo High School
Wayne Morgan (top) and Jack Scruggs (bottom) as second graders at the Arroyo Grande Grammar School–the site of today’s Mullahey Ford–in 1926. Fifteen years later, the two were shipmates on battleship Arizona, circled in the second photo. This is the moment of Scrugg’s death. A trombonist in the ship’s band, the explosions off the battleship’s stern killed him as he prepared to play the National Anthem. Ten minutes later, Morgan was killed; his father owned an earlier Ford agency in the building now occupied by Doc Burnstein’s.
Just before America’s entry into World War II, Nakamura was the sports editor of the Arroyo Grande Union High School Hi-Chatter. Two years after he and his family were interned, the twenty-year-old led an Army Intelligence mission into the mountains of China, where he was to link up with Chinese guerrillas. The Chinese were so taken with young Nakamura that they threw him a 21st birthday party. Somebody had a record player, so there was even a little dance. One of Nakamura’s dance partners was a former Chinese movie star, Jian Qing. We know her better as Madame Mao.
Some of the most vicious bigotry I’ve ever encountered came in prewar newspaper columns that condemned Filipino immigrants–called “The Manong Generation.” The young men—almost no Filipinas were allowed to immigrate–found solace in the community center that was Pismo Beach’s P.I. market. They responded to the nation that seemed to hate them by volunteering, in great numbers, to fight the Japanese and help liberate their homes. They were superb soldiers.
Heritage Salon on Branch Street in Arroyo Grande was once Buzz’s Barber and Beauty. Buzz gave a stranger a haircut in his #1 chair in 1959. The stranger’s dog, a big handsome poodle, waited in a pickup parked on Branch Street for his boss to finish his haircut. The poodle was named Charley. Buzz’s customer was John Steinbeck.

Aron and Alexander

24 Wednesday Jun 2020

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There are times in any amateur historian’s research when you’re led in a direction you didn’t expect. If you’re lucky, that new direction will reward you with a lesson in our shared humanity–which, to me, is what history is all about, anyway.

The facts seem basic. Isidor Aron (1853-1909) and Siegfried Alexander (1856-1923), were cousins, from Posen, a province of Prussia until Bismarck completed Germany’s unification in The Hall of Mirrors at Versailles in 1871. This was the final act of a victory over Napoleon III’s France that would poison Europe. This moment made Verdun possible—the place where, beneath plexiglas panels in the floor of the battlefield ossuary, the unidentified bones of tens of thousands of French and German boys are stacked, orderly and ghastly.

The two cousins had emigrated to America two years before the Bismarck’s moment in the Hall of Mirrors—that’s good news— but not long after their adoptive nation’s near-annihilation in the Civil War. That’s bad news. German immigrants were not viewed kindly—my grandmother’s people came here from Baden-Wurttemberg—and the war had made them tragicomic. The Army of the Potomac’s XI Corps, after all, made up mostly of German immigrants (“We Fight Mits Sigel,” a popular song was titled, in honor of their commander, Franz Sigel), had collapsed under the weight of Stonewall Jackson’s stunning surprise attack at Chancellorsville in May 1863, in Lee’s greatest victory.

The Confederates had come bursting out of dense woods thought impassable, trilling their Rebel Yell and preceded by panic-stricken jackrabbits, foxes and deer who galloped through the Union soldiers at their suppers. The Germans trailed the animals in their flight, but not by much.

For a time, the only resistance on Hooker’s right seemed to be coming from a single cannon, also in retreat, but manned by a crew that would pause periodically to load and fire a canister charge, essentially, the artillery version of a shotgun shell, loaded with deadly steel balls, into their pursuers. The defiant artillery crew was directed by a German immigrant, Captain Hubert Dilger. A Southern artillerist described Dilger’s actions that day as “superhuman,” and the young Union officer would win the Medal of Honor.

It appears that Dilger was overshadowed by bad generalship and the resultant flight of XI Corps. It would take generations for their descendants—Eisenhower, Eichelberger, Spaatz, Nimitz—to redeem Chancellorsville.

For the rest of the war, XI Corps would be derisively referred to as “The Flying Dutchmen.” Ironically, it was a Confederate state—Texas, of all places—that would welcome German immigrants with open arms. Texas German is still spoken there.

German immigrant Isidor Aron came to California. Here’s a 1905 passport application, preparatory to the great adventure of his life, which includes the record of his immigration and citizenship.

Luckily, Isidor and his cousin Siegfried were far too young for Chancellorsville. They took up clerking in San Francisco, possibly attracted by the reputation of another successful German—another German Jew—the Bavarian-born Levi Strauss.

The cousins came to Arroyo Grande as merchants in the 1880s, setting up a haberdashery and dry-goods store on the corner of Branch and Bridge Streets, on the site of today’s “Something Different” store, which was once the Bank of America.

In August 1897, the cousins took out a rare display ad—they were given to more modest two-line blurbs that typified the advertising columns of small-town Victorian weeklies— in the Arroyo Grande Valley Herald-Recorder.

What is clear from the historical record is the popularity of Aron and Alexander—as men and fellow citizens, and not just as merchants. The venerable local historian Madge Ditmas wrote in one of her 1941 Herald-Recorder columns, just before veering off into one of her typical anti-FDR screeds, that these Germans weren’t seen as foreigners at all.

So the seemingly effortless generosity of the two—which had to have come, in reality, with tremendous effort—endeared them to Arroyo Grande.

Sadly, the cousins would die far from their American home. A stroke killed Aron in 1909 Los Angeles; a heart attack ended Alexander’s life in 1922 San Francisco. But, as Ditmas notes, they loved to travel, and luckily, they managed to take what was called the Grand Tour together in 1905, four years before Aron’s death. Here’s a note from the Herald-Recorder that clearly indicates the presence of an Aron and Alexander Fan Club:


The cousins were eventually buried together. Aron is buried in Plot C8 in the Arroyo Grande District Cemetery; Alexander lies alongside, in C10. Atop their tombstones are the Hebrew letters that tell you

Here lies a son of God.

Of that, I am sure. To have made your way as a foreigner in a place as foreign as Arroyo Grande, on the continent’s edge, to have generated so much good will, speaks unwritten volumes beyond the simple profundity of their tombstones. They were certainly devoted to their business and to each other, but they were devoted—perhaps even more— to my home town. Their lives shaped ours in ways we may never fully understand or appreciate.





Finding hope in a sunken battleship

16 Tuesday Jun 2020

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Watching From Here to Eternity yesterday reminded me of how miraculous Americans can be when they work together. One example of this would be the battleship California, sunk at her berth at the head of Battleship Row. These photos show her position a few days after, surrounded by repair vessels, trying desperately to keep California afloat, but she would finally sink and settle on December 10  You can see also the capsized Oklahoma and the sunken Arizona, with her bow blown away.

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And here is California being raised from the mud at Pearl. She would not only be raised, but she’d be re-designed, repaired and put back into action by early 1944. Her lines (seen below) were far more beautiful than they’d ever been.

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California had been launched in 1921; but even in her more ungainly interwar version, I found this photograph enchanting. Here she is passing beneath another American engineering miracle, still under construction: The Golden Gate Bridge.

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It struck me how incredibly productive Americans can be—I looked forward every year to teaching my U.S. History students about 1930s bridge-building. But nothing demonstrated our productivity and ingenuity more than the civilian response to World War II, including the fabled “Rosie the Riveter” (women made up a third of the labor force).

The image that so vividly demonstrates this part of our national character is this photograph of masses of supplies being offloaded onto Omaha Beach shortly after D-Day. I think this is one of the most inspirational photographs in our history.

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There is something else that reclaimed ships, bridges and wartime factories suggest, and that’s the capability of our national imagination, something I took for granted growing up when I would pad out into our living room, wrapped in a blanket against the cold, to watch a Mercury Program launch from Cape Canaveral. This is John Glenn, one of my Mercury heroes.

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But the best example of this element of our national character–our imagination–didn’t come in wartime or in the New Deal years–and not even in the heady days of the seven Mercury astronauts. I think it came in 1956.

The largest work project in American history came in Ike’s time: The National Highway Act led to the construction of 41,000 miles of roads and generated hundreds of thousands of jobs. We proved once again that we could think big and build big.

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And of course the Highway Act led to my life the way it’s turned out; when my father became the comptroller of Madonna Construction–he bid jobs up and down the state–that led to the family’s move from Taft to Arroyo Grande, my hometown.

I am sick of those who proclaim us a “failed country,” because they know nothing about our history. We don’t need them anymore than we needed Copperhead Clement Vallandigham or snake-oil salesman like Huey Long or Joseph McCarthy.

What we need to do is to remember who we are.

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Breslin and Hamill, reporters

01 Monday Jun 2020

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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deadline-artists

Watched a fascinating HBO documentary last night on what used to be called “New Journalists.” It focused on two New Yorkers, Jimmy Breslin and Pete Hamill. I was particularly struck by Breslin–not necessarily an admirable person, he was a brilliant writer and, even better, a brilliant reporter.

Two examples from JFK’s assassination: While the pack of print journalists hunkered down in front of Malcolm Kilduff for the announcement and followup details of the president’s death, Breslin tracked down the ER doctor who’d tried to keep Kennedy alive. The story even included the sandwich the doctor was eating when he was called to Examination Room 1, and Breslin’s description of Jacqueline Kennedy and her stoicism there is some of the most brilliant writing I’ve ever read.

Example #2: On the day of the funeral, Breslin looked around and realized he was one of 3,000 reporters covering the funeral procession. He broke away, sped to the cemetery, and found the man who was digging the president’s grave. It was, the man said, an honor, for which he was paid $3 an hour. Breslin’s story about the gravedigger somehow crystalized the entire nation’s grief.

The two journalists were a study in contrasts. Breslin agonized over every word. Hamill, like me, wrote rapidly and his New York “Times” pieces–on politics, on social justice, on the civil rights movement–still have a kind of shimmer to them today.

While Breslin was fond of the companions he’d immortalize in “The Gang Who Couldn’t Shoot Straight”–button men, professional arsonists (!), mob lawyers, gamblers–Hamill was dating Shirley McLaine and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. His best work–on his own alcoholism–was yet to come then, in the early 1970s.

He’d almost quit writing in 1968, when Robert Kennedy was assassinated. He’d made a mistake, he said. He’d gotten too close to his subject. Bobby’s death nearly killed him, too.

Checkpoints

13 Wednesday May 2020

Posted by ag1970 in Uncategorized

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An Oglala Sioux checkpoint in South Dakota

Old history: It’s estimated that 20 million people were living in the Americas in 1500, when Europeans began to arrive. By 1800, fewer than two million survived. Most of the difference—except for the premeditated deaths— can be explained by the diseases Europeans brought with their animals.

The Chinese, it’s said, eat bats, and it’s the “wet markets” that are popularly blamed for Coronavirus.

The Europeans ate beef and sheep and chickens–in fact, in winters, early modern Europeans slept with these animals. The animals kept them warm as both animals and humans conserved calories in a kind of suspended animation that enabled them to survive until spring. Then the Europeans ate their companions.

Europeans were therefore immune to the influenza and measles and the smallpox–a remarkably resilient disease–that dropped the Americans like scythed wheat, another European import.

Current events: In South Dakota today, the Lakota (Sioux) people are stopping cars on the highway where they enter reservation land so that they can protect their people from the novel coronavirus.

Novel, or new, diseases have a horrific impact on indigenous people: The 1918 influenza killed more than half the Native Americans in Alaska. The death rate for the H1N1 influenza in 2009 was four times higher among Native Americans than among the general population.

So the Lakota people are wary. And they are stubborn. The checkpoints exist because even though they live amid the most abject poverty in the United States, they want, above all things, to live.

A Lakota woman, the Butterfly Dance



The government is going to take the to court to force the highways open. The Lakota people are going to fight back, in court.

They will lose, of course. In 1890, the Lakota fought back against the government. They fought back by trying to run away. This is how the government responded, and this is how they lost. I wrote this piece six years ago.



* * *

Wounded Knee - a picture from the past | Art and design | The Guardian
Big Foot in death, Wounded Knee.


In the winter of 1890, Lakota Chief Big Foot led his people away from the Standing Rock Reservation, in North Dakota, where Sitting Bull had just been killed, because he was afraid for them, afraid there would be more violence. He was fleeing for the Pine Ridge Reservation, in South Dakota, when the Seventh Cavalry caught up to his band. Big Foot was exhausted and sick from pneumonia. He raised a white flag.

When the Seventh confiscated the group’s weapons the next morning, Dec. 29, a rifle discharged. The regiment, which had surrounded Big Foot’s people, opened up with everything they had, including four Hotchkiss guns—42 mm howitzers.

They killed as many as 370 Lakota, including Big Foot. Rifle and shellfire killed many as they huddled close together—fish in a barrel—in panic, in the scant shelter of a creek bank.

Many others were killed while they were running away. The power of their fear was such that a few women and children, hungry and numb from cold, ran for two miles before troopers remorselessly rode them down and shot them.

Twenty cavalry troopers received Congressional Medals of Honor for the work they did at Wounded Knee that day.

The Lakota survivors—the blood from their wounds was frozen—were brought to an Episcopal chapel, decorated for the Christmas season, where, as historian Dee Brown notes, they were laid out on the floor under a sign that read:

“Peace on earth, goodwill toward men.”



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