“Whiskey Bill,” an Arroyo Grande war hero

We can’t even get his name right. The majority of newspaper and official records spell it the way I did in the caption above, from the Civil War book Patriot Graves. But Bill Ash’s tombstone adds an “e”—Ashe—as does the tombstone of his son, both buried in the Arroyo Grande District Cemetery. A researcher nicknamed “Big Sur Baby,” who is diligent and valuable, lists at least one other name for him, “Charles Lewis,” on the website findagrave.com. There may have been at least one more name he gave himself in what turned out to be a relatively short life.

He was known, sadly, as “Whiskey Bill.” In this June 1889 clipping, he’s a guest of San Luis Obispo County Sheriff A.J. McLeod:

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But in May 1861, he was a different man, an enlistee in the United States Navy only a month after the attack on Fort Sumter. Here’s the record:

He’s a little fellow, about my size–it was more “average” in 1861–and his prewar occupation was, in fact as a “mariner,” so he was not a fresh fish in Lincoln’s navy. He’s twenty-six, born in Philadelphia, but I haven’t been able to learn much more than that. He’s enlisted for two years, but he served far longer than that. This poignant story is from an 1898 Arroyo Grande Herald-Recorder. I guess Bill Ashe needed whiskey money:



He wasn’t an “old soldier,” of course. He was a sailor, and a member of David Porter’s North Atlantic Fleet, seen in this photo leaving for Fort Fisher, a Confederate stronghold guarding Wilmington Harbor, North Carolina, in December 1864.


The assault was commanded by Gen. Ben Butler, notorious for his corruption as a military governor in New Orleans, and by Admiral Porter, who’s had a brace of warships named for him. Despite what was the heaviest naval bombardment in history up to that time, the 1864 assault ultimately failed.




I cannot find a record—yet—of that handsome gold medal that Bill Ashe earned and I wondered how he might’ve earned it. Bombarding an enemy fort from a relatively safe distance doesn’t seem to be heroic, unless you’ve actually done something like that.

Then I found this illustration from a U.S. Navy website:


So it’s possible that Ordinary Seaman Ashe earned that recognition for heroism on dry land, on the kind of frontal assault that reminds you of the doomed one undertaken by the 54th, on Fort Wagner, in the film Glory.

Bill survived Fort Fisher—it would fall the following year, 1865, a moment featured in Spielberg’s Lincoln, when the president’s about to tell his Ethan Allen story.

Ashe would be a Navy man for a long time. Big Sur Baby notes that one of his ships was the USS Jamestown, a sloop of war. This wouldn’t have been his ship at Fort Fisher—Jamestown was then in the Pacific, protecting merchant ships and whalers from Confederate commerce raiders.

After the Civil War, Jamestown remains a presence in the Pacific, showing the flag as far west as Tahiti and as far north as Sitka, until, in 1872, she becomes a shipboard training school at Mare Island, San Francisco. That’s the year when we find Bill again in this Navy record:


He’s an Old Salt now—thirty-eight years old—and has acquired, along the way, two tattoos: a ballerina on one hand and his initials “W.A.” on the other. After 1872, I was able to find a couple of possible Bill Ashes in northern California, but the next solid lead came in my hometown, Arroyo Grande.


This notice, in February 1882, reveals that Ashe has acquired ten acres of land in the Upper Arroyo Grande Valley, potentially bottom land passed down from town founder Francis Branch and his son-in-law, David Newsom. But there’s a caveat: It’s “monte land,” which means that, like most of the Arroyo Grande Valley, it’s still covered by monte–a dense mixture of scrub, including willow, that was as sharp as razor wire. That’s why Branch’s vaqueros wore leather chaps: chasing a runaway calf into the monte would cut a cowboy’s legs to pieces without the protection of his chaps.

So you guess that Bill began to clear his ten acres. My friend, historian Shirley Gibson, has told me that Bill was an extraordinarily hard worker who, in the years after this, took his pay in whiskey for clearing the monte off his neighbors’ land.

I am not sure what happened to Bill. It’s likely that he’d always struggled with alcohol addiction. While I am no psychiatrist, Bill’s seemingly precipitous decline may have begun with a brief life recorded by this tombstone in our cemetery:


I haven’t been able to find out a record of Mrs. Ashe, but the fact that Thomas’s age was calculated down to the days is revelatory to me. Bill would have been fifty-one in 1885, and Thomas, a name I’m fond of, must have been a great gift to him at that age. For a man whose life might’ve seemed to have reached its zenith at Fort Fisher in 1864, this little boy pointed to the future. You wonder if Bill’s future died, too, on September 24, 1885.

Four years later, Ashe is the guest of Sheriff McLeod, only to be humiliated in the local paper.

But in January 1892, the county Board of Supervisors reminded the navy veteran—and the rest of San Luis Obispo County, too—that they remembered “what Bill was once.” A road tax is levied on the farmers of the Upper Valley, with this notable exception in the language of the ordinance:


There were plenty of Army veterans in the Upper Valley—Erastus Fouch and Sylvanus Ullom, Gettysburg veterans, are just two examples—but there is only one Civil War navy veteran in our history, the only one buried in our cemetery, and that’s Bill Ashe.

Ashe’s death, from a stroke, came soon after this seemingly minor honor from the gentlemen who made up the Board of Supervisors. Twenty-eight years after— and a continent away from Fort Fisher, North Carolina—I don’t think the honor they paid Bill Ashe was in any way “minor” to the Supervisors.

The most memorable navy battle of the Civil War began today. On March 8-9, 1862, USS Monitor fought her duel with CSS Virginia in Hampton Roads, Virginia, and the little Monitor, with her rotating gun turret, presaged an age of American battleships that would dominate the U.S. Navy until December 7, 1941, when Arroyo Grande lost two sailors on USS Arizona.

So it’s a good day, March 8, to remember a Union Navy sailor like Bill Ashe. I will take him a little American flag tomorrow.

Mission accomplished.

I can’t begin to tell you how much I love this movie. But I will, anyway.

I love the Turner Classic Movie hosts because I learn so much from them. Last night’s host—it’s the annual “Month of Oscars” series—Dave Karger, taught me a lot about It Happened One Night, so his introduction made me watch it more closely than I ever have before. Among the items Karger pointed out:

–The studio that produced it, Columbia, was a shoestring operation in danger of going under. This film saved it.

–The resemblances to my favorite film, Casablanca, are amazing. Nobody expected either this film or Casablanca to be very good. Gable had gotten into the doghouse with his contract studio, MGM, so they lent him to a studio made of tin, Columbia, with the thought of disciplining him.

–No matter how much the Gable and Colbert seemed to enjoy each other, Colbert confided after It Happened had wrapped that she’d just finished the most awful film.

She was, as Bogart deadpanned in Casablanca, misinformed.

It Happened One Night won won five of the most prestigious Academy Awards: Best Picture, Best Director, Best Screenplay, Best Actor, Best Actress. That had never happened before, on one night nor on any other in particular.

It must’ve helped hat Gable was the King of Hollywood (yes, I know about the bad teeth and the urban legend about the the fatal hit and run.) I’ve always been interested in Gable—I started out as a reporter, and it was Teacher’s Pet, with Doris Day, and not GWTW, which would’ve been one of my parents’ first “date”movies in 1940—that first attracted me. But I’ve also always been interested in Carole Lombard, too.

When I showed a similar film in spirt to It Happened One Night—My Man Godfrey—with Lombard and William Powell, to my U.S. History classes (Gregory La Cava directed), they loved it and they learned from it. That intersection between the privileged rich and us plebes attracted them immediately and it held them. They learned empathy from a film made before their grandparents were born.

And, of course, Lombard was madly in love with Gable, learned to hunt and fish because he loved to hunt and fish. She didn’t have to learn anything about dogs—I’ve written before about her love for them—because Gable loved them, too. Including Irish Setters. (We’ve had two, among many pound puppies in our thirty-seven wedded years, named Mollie and Brigid.)


Those two, Gable and Lombard, like Elizabeth and me, finally found each other, married. Tragically, Lombard died in an air crash soon after Pearl Harbor, during a War Bond Drive. It’s an incredible and incredibly sad love story.

The two were part of our history, San Luis Obispo County’s history, too. They’d been guests at the Hearst Estate in San Simeon and, six years after It Happened. Gable and Joan Crawford filmed Strange Cargo in Pismo Beach, stayed at the Landmark Hotel, which is still there, on Price Street, and one day, The King of Hollywood thrilled a group of San Luis High kids by joining them in a pickup game of softball n the beach.

But here are some of the things that caught my eye in last night’s viewing, thanks to Dave Karger’s inspired introduction:

A quick summary: Claudette Colbert (Ellen) is running away from her father–she gracefully dives from his Florida yacht and swims to shore—so that she can marry a man, King Westley, an aviator who looks like Howard Hughes, as played by Bela Lugosi. He’s a creep. So she’s incognito and riding an interstate bus north when she runs into Gable’s reporter, Peter. Peter needs money and Ellen, the runaway heiress, is his scoop. Ellen needs Peter’s street smarts. So they become uneasy seatmates on a northbound bus.

The bus alone is amazing: It’s big and square with fog lamps and headlights and an air horn that blasts when it pulls out of the terminal. It’s a damned impressive Atlantic Greyhound. So’s the driver: the first one is Ward Bond, who will have a bigger role in Capra’s postwar It’s A Wonderful Life, where he’s the Bedford Fall cop. But he’s uniformed impressively as a Greyhound driver, too, from his Sam Browne Belt to his soft high-topped boots.


It’s all over for Gable, even though his hard-boiled reporter type won’t admit it, in the first night on the bus, when Ellen falls asleep against Peter. She is, let’s face it, adorable.

But the two, as is required, fuss and fight. She doesn’t carry cash. He doesn’t have it to begin with. So, when the bus runs up against a bridge washout, they have to share a room at an overnight camp. That, of course, leads to the film’s most famous scene, where Gable undresses and reveals to the world that Peter does not wear undershirts. I guess Jockey took a hit after that scene. He loans Ellen his best pajamas and erects a divider—“the Wall of Jericho”—between their beds for decency’s sake. The next morning, when Ellen clumps to auto court showers in Peter’s overcoat and oversized shoes, Colbert somehow makes even a clumsy walk seem charming.

Still, you’re glad when spoiled Ellen has to learn to stand in line in a place that closely resembles the Weedpatch Camp in The Grapes of Wrath. Another part of this film’s allure is its uncanny ability to transport you back to 1933, when it was shot, and to the Great Depression.

Ellen’s lucky to have that shower, and those pajamas and that overcoat and those shoes—-and the toothbrush and toothpaste that are Peter’s little gifts.

And therein lies Peter’s charm. He’s cocky, a big drinker, insubordinate and not quite as smart as he thinks he is. He passes himself off as an expert at hitchhiking, piggy-back riding and the art of dunking a doughnut. But he is also, with the exception of stealing Alan Hale’s Model T and tying the man to a tree (Hale deserved it, if only for his awful singing), he is decent. He is, to use an old-fashioned word that needs desperately to be revived, honorable. He is also generous; he is, to borrow Joseph Campbell’s remarkable observation about Han Solo, “a hero who doesn’t know that he’s a hero.”


And Peter makes breakfast, too. The doughnut-dunking scene meant a lot to me. The film was made in 1933, when the Depression was at its depths, and the care with which Peter and Ellen share a breakfast— two eggs, two doughnuts, two cups of coffee—made me a little hungry and made me, in some silly way, want to march in and add hash browns, ham, biscuits and gravy and another pot of coffee. That kind of extravagance—the big breakfasts I love so much— just wasn’t there in 1933.

The intimate scenes between the two principals are barbed and funny and eventually they are…well, intimate…but one of my favorite scenes comes on the crowded bus, when the passengers joint in three rousing choruses of “The Daring Young Man on the Flying Trapeze,” which includes a sailor whose verse is pretty racy for 1934 (“His eyes would undress every girl in the house…”) and who looks remarkably like Popeye, who would also sing this song.


I noticed for the first time that the third and final verse is led by the director. That is Frank Capra, painfully young but already wise enough to know that we Americans are at our best when we are together, even if singing this song, than we are when we battle each other. The one painful part of the film comes when the bus stops and a Black man, ringing a bell, bellows out what’s on the menu in Stepin Fetchit English. He’s a moment of comic relief, a kind of cinematic comma, and while Capra has so much to offer modern, divided, Americans, this scene, mercifully brief, hurts.



The battle between Ellen and Frank begins to end in their stay at another auto court, considerably more rustic than the first, when the blanket goes up again. This is Ellen, on her side, as she realizes that she’s in love with the arrogant man on the other side and not with the man she’s running away to for her New York wedding. This might be the film’s most poignant scene.


When her intended arrives at the wedding in his ludicrous gyrocopter—wearing a top hat, which you wish the rotors would lop off, along with his head—Peter is in the den of Ellen’s father, demanding he be paid for his efforts in returning the prodigal daughter home.

That amounts to $39.60.

That seals the deal for Ellen’s father. His sideways whispers as he takes her to the altar lead to her to dump King, Mr. Hughes-Lugosi, right then and there. Gasps ensue.

I don’t know how many runaway bride films have been made, but this one has set the standard, as far as I’m concerned. Ellen’s breath-taking wedding gown, satin, is stunning, from the cloche headdress (like Colbert’s bob, it’s on the edge of going out of style) to the train which trails behind her, by about the length of three freight cars.

A little earlier, stuck at a crossing in his Model T, Peter waves jauntily at a freight car loaded with what were called “hoboes” in 1933. My grandfather John let men like these stay the night at his farmhouse on the Ozark Plateau while my grandmother made them bacon and eggs. They were poets, engineers, one a classical violinist who played by the warmth of my grandmother’s stove.

Decency.

So Ellen, quite sensibly, runs away to her destiny.That would be with Peter.

The Walls of Jericho come down later, in a third auto court somewhere in Michigan, maybe in the Upper Peninsula, where Gable would’ve found fine fly-fishing. That would mean trout frying for breakfast, just like Hemingway’s “Big Two-Hearted River.” That’s another meal altogether, of course, but. there’s a common link between Hemingway’s prose, and Capra’s films. They are miraculous to me. They are miraculously American.

A little meal was the centerpiece of this little film. It Happened One Night, I think, is the equivalent of a breakfast of one egg, one doughnut, and one cup of coffee. By the time it’s over, you realize, in making every bite count, that it was perfect.

Claudette Colbert, in that dress, studies her lines in between takes.

“There are some… in this world who were born to do our unpleasant jobs for us.”

Collin Paxton as Mayella Violet Ewell, To Kill a Mockingbird

She introduced the word “chifforobe” to the rest of us. To prepare for her audition for this film, she selected her own wardrobe, which included an old blouse and dirty tennis shoes with holes in them. She rubbed cold cream into her hair to make it look disheveled and dirty. Collin Paxton (1935-2009), as Mayella, who accuses Tom Robinson of rape, has an epic breakdown on the witness stand in To Kill a Mockingbird. It’s a scene that is still, sixty-plus years later, shocking and, even more, stunning. It is masterful acting.

I’ve written before about Frank Overton’s quiet decency as the county sheriff in the film. I’ve written about our niece Emmy’s acclaimed turn as Scout in the St. Louis Metro Theater Company’s production and her getting the wonderful chance to meet Mary Badham, the film’s Scout.



Someday, I guess, I’ll have to turn to Jem and Calpurnia, too, and to Dill, Capote’s fictional counterpart. But this role is central to the film because Mayella’s testimony—bigotry trumps reason and Atticus’s empiricism—dooms Tom Robinson.

The irony? Collin Paxton was a civil rights activist, passionate about the struggle of Black Americans. When she appeared at an NAACP meeting in Monterey she got silent, sullen looks until it was pointed out the “the actress is not the person.” She did good works, including, with her husband Bill, founding actors’ studios that offered training for free.

That was in Malibu. Paxton was raised in North Carolina, so when she auditioned for the role, she stood out among the young women, pretty and made-up, who had no chance at being Mayella, the daughter of an abusive father, a character who takes his name from two Confederate generals. The role was Paxton’s. It was always meant to be.

Paxton in 1974 in one of her many television roles.

Happy Heavenly Birthday, Harry Belafonte

Happy Heavenly Birthday to Harry Belafonte (1927-2023). I’ve only mentioned this about twenty times, but when I was a kid, we listened to his Carnegie Hall concerts, double LPs, so often that you could almost see through them.

And I’ve posted Belafonte concert clips before–he is utterly charming and quite possibly the handsomest man God ever created–but these clips from Beetlejuice still make me smile. Big time.

“The Banana Boat Song,” With, among others, Winona Ryder, Catherine O’Hara (“Schitt’s Creek”) and Dick Cavett.

And Ryder dances to “Shake Señora/Jump in the Line” as a bonus.

Just a girl!

Caitlin Clark



I once did a lesson where I showed my classes slides with photos of the interscholastic sports teams from when I was a student at their high school, Arroyo Grande, in the 1960s. I’d show the varsity football team, then the girls varsity soccer team. That was a blank slide. Then I’d show the boys varsity basketball team—it was a good one, coached by Mario Pecile, who became a legend—then the girls b-ball team. Blank slide.

I was making a point.

There were not girls’ interscholastic sports when I was in high school. They had Aqua Festival, which featured synchronized swimming. There were intramural sports, and one of the biggest clubs on campus was the Girls’ Athletic Association, but it if someone had asked you in 1968, “Are you going to the girls’ varsity game tonight in San Luis?” in 1968, you would have thought them insane.

That athletic desert for young women persisted until Title IX was passed in 1972, mandating that schools provide young women equal opportunity to participate in interscholastic sports.

There was no Title IX in 1910, but Arroyo Grande Union High School did have a women’s basketball team. The were 4-0–not, not a big season, and the scores indicate that the baskebtball spent a lot of time on the ground (“ground,” not “floor.” No AGUHS gym until 1937), but they had uniforms and they had a reputation and the newspapers covered their games. And we have this marvelous photo from the Bennett-Loomis Archives.


I don’t know what happened between 1910 and Title IX, but it was a tragic waste in human potential. Young women, to borrow a line from On the Waterfront, should’ve been contenders. A young woman and former student, Sarah—a fellow Basset Hound lover–put me in mind of this. She posted a picture of herself scaling a climbing gym’s wall and it looked as if she wasn’t having much trouble at all. Sarah is a terrific athlete, a gymnast, small but powerful, and flexible, too, in ways I haven’t been since I was a baby and could put my foot in my own mouth, a habit that continued, figuratively, long into adulthood.

So, thinking of Sarah and other women athletes I, of course, made a little video.

I follow Women’s NCAA basketball now and again, and so Caitlin Clark’s in here. Nelly Korda’s clubhead points directly at the target in her follow-through, and you have to be about a flexible as Baby Me to do that. Her swing is both fluid and immnesely powerful. Tia Jones—okay, I’ll admit it, she is beautiful, she reminds of FloJo, whom I adored—but I don’t see how anybody can leap hurdles, let alone the way she does in the clip.

And, of course, Simone Biles is my hero because she has both the courage of a champion and the kind of honesty that requires far more courage. She risked a storm of condemnation when she admitted her vulnerablity, her emotional exhaustion, at the last Olympics, and withdrew from some events. She’s back. The video clip of her tumbling run is from last fall.

All four have one more trait that makes them great athletes. They are a joy to watch. I’m looking forward to the Paris Olympics because of young American women.

Iwo Jima and Arroyo Grande

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Today is February 23. On this day in 1945, a detail from the 28th Marine Regiment was immortalized in this Joe Rosenthal photograph as, still under fire, they raised a second, larger, flag atop Mt. Suribachi on Iwo Jima. The young Marine on the right had six days to live. He was a farmer’s son from Corbett Canyon, near Arroyo Grande. His parents were Azorean immigrants. And I knew, from the date on his tombstone, that he died on Iwo Jima.

I owe Pvt. Louis Brown so much for many reasons. In my history classes, I wanted my students to learn the basics of research, including forensic study of a battlefield (The Little Bighorn) and using deductive reasoning to analyze a murder scene (the Lizzie Borden home) so that they could begin to appreciate how historians think. So the sad business of finding this young man’s tombstone inspired a lesson plan. I walked students through the steps of researching a World War II combatant—may they might research an ancestor someday—by modeling what I’d done, in a series of PowerPoint slides:



And, yes, this would be on the test, so they had a notes handout to help them follow along:



Louis Brown had by now become important to me. I wanted other people to know him, too, hence this article in the June 2009 SLO Journal Plus.

Even that wasn’t enough, so, when I began to give talks on local World War II history, Louis Brown was part of them.

By now, of course, I was hooked on doing research like this, so Brown inspired this 2016 book, my first.

And this is why, every few months, I make sure that he has new American and Marine Corps flags. Sometimes, as this photo shows, someone else has left him flowers. That is a great kindness: Brown is their Marine, too.

Unchained Melody

Ted Danson, the late Kirstie Alley

Cheers was an immensely popular NBC comedy about a retired Red Sox pitcher and bar owner. His photo, behind the bar, was actually that of San Luis Obispo’s Jim Lonborg, also a Red Sox picture. The bar owner, Sam (Danson) ardently pursued his boss, Rebecca (Alley, who won multiple Emmys), who was marvelously skilled at shutting him down.

There was only one chink in Rebecca’s formidable armor, and it was this song. Her entire skeleton turned to boiled spaghetti. She swooned. I would argue, if there’s a song and a performance that deserves swooning, it’s “Unchained Melody,” as performed by the Righteous Brothers’ Bobby Hatfield.

Let the swoonage commence!


And, of course, I am not done. Let us take a moment to appreciate Hatfield and his baritone brother, Bill Withers. Wow.



Righteous Brother



Don’t ask me how I knew this. I don’t know, either. And I am not and never have—well, until this year, with their sensational rookie quarterback, C.J. Stroud, a Californian—paid the Houston Texans much attention.

But I always had the sense that this huge, powerful man, a defensive end, loves children. Of course, he loves his own: JJ and his wife, Kealia, with their son, Koa.

I love my sons, too, who are ever-so-much bigger than I am. But Watt’s love for children has always been obvious. That’s what made me first notice him.

You have every right to be cynical. Visits to children’s hospitals soften the image of what is admittedly a brutal sport. But I am reminded of these photos, too:


You can’t fake some things, PR opportunities or not. Justin Turner was Ryan Texeira’s friend. They enjoyed being together, in the same way that Watt so transparently enjoys being with children.

Here’s the best part, for me, at least currently: I asked Elizabeth the other night if I could watch the news at the top of the hour. I could only take about thee minutes of it before I turned the channel.

But, courtesy of Tribune editor Joe Tarica, we got this image of a tweet—or whatever they call them—that Watt posted earlier this week at Louisa’s Place in San Luis Obispo. It should be noted that Elizabeth and I taught a batch o’Sweeneys, the family that owns the restaurant, and we loved them. That does not detract from the glory of this image: A Louisa’s omelet is about the size of a fleet submarine and what’s inside them (my favorite is the avocado and bacon) can lead you to Glory.


He evidently was in town for a wedding, and he wrote of how excited the bride was and how happy that made him.

Righteous brother. He makes me happy, too.

What does that mean, younger folks? This beautiful young woman is French. Watch her face as she hears a Righteous Brothers song—Bill Medley and Bobby Hatfield—from about 1965.

I guess, in losing Alexei Navalny and then watching the video of his beautiful, tiny, and immensely courageous widow, Yulia, I needed a Righteous Brother to comfort me because I fear so much for her, my Righteous Sister. This song is perfect for her.


I just never expected to find my Righteous Brother at Louisa’s Place.


Two historic coincidences in my life. Oh, and why is that lady naked?


Today’s blog post title shows you how much I like working without a net. I will now attempt to tie all of those elements together.

Let me start with my brother Bruce. Bruce is meticulous, precise and gifted in many ways. He builds stuff. When we were kids (he’s four years older), he built a scale model of the CSS Alabama, a sloop of war that played hell with Yankee shipping, especially with whaling ships, which I mind not very much at all. Bruce’s Alabama, a Revell kit, was gorgeous down to its copper-plated hull and including its monster swivel gun, a 110-pounder mounted amidships. (The Revell kit’s gun was somewhat smaller.)

Since yesterday marked the anniversary of the Confederate submarine Hunley’s first successful mission in attacking a Union ship—it was also her last, since the sub sank with her crew—thinking about Alabama today seemed natural.

And then we come to this Edouard Manet painting, Luncheon on the Grass.

I like Manet because he threw out this style, brightened his palette, and learned from young Impressionists like Renoir and Monet. That takes courage, humility and, conversely, a good deal of self-regard.

This painting baffles me. The young men are so full of self-regard—look at that one guy staring smugly at the artist—that they have failed to notice that one of their party is, to borrow a term, buck nekkid. How could anyone be so obtuse?

And what is the other lady doing, anyway? Pulling up watercress for their sandwiches? Trying to catch polliwogs? Has she lost a contact lens? And she’s in peril of losing her clothes, too.

In a trial-and-error process, I discovered that I like the French, especially those north of Paris, from Metz to Normandy. I just don’t understand them. This painting only confirms that.



Anyway, here is the original Revell model kit and a model that looks very much like the one my brother built, except I think his was under sail, not uncommon to 19th-century steamships. Again, his model was gorgeous.

Hang on. We’re almost getting to the point.

In 1864, off the coast of Cherbourg, France, citizens watched as the Union Navy finally caught up with Alabama. After a one-hour gun duel during which over 200 shots were exchanged, a hit at the commerce raider’s waterline sent Alabama to the bottom.

Edouard Manet painted the battle; below is his painting and a detail from it. A little rescue boat heads for Alabama as she begins her final plunge.


The rescue boat’s important, because Capt. Raphael Semmes, seen below next to the Big Fella during an 1863 visit to Capetown, South Africa, survived this battle. He had little Semmeses who had more of the same until…wait for it…I had the pleasure of teaching history to a direct descendant, Travis Semmes, at Mission Prep. Ta-daa!



By the way, Cherbourg has ties to San Luis Obispo County history, too. In June 1944, Jack Langston of Shandon lost his life over the city when German batteries brought down his fighter, a P-38 that would’ve looked exactly like the one in the photo. He was never found. Far below, the 79th Infantry Division was fighting street to street, a terrible thing for a foot soldier to endure. One of them, a San Luis Obispo County farmworker, Domingo Martinez, was there; the 79th secured Cherbourg but Martinez was killed in the bocage beyond the city in July. My students and I found his grave at the American Cemetery above Omaha Beach on a 2010 visit.

We wanted to thank him.


Raphael and Travis Semmes made up the first coincidence. The second has to do with the fact California mandates the teaching of state history in fourth grade. That included, in 1962 and still in 2024, the construction of a model California mission. It’s a rite of passage in California, like road rash from falling off your skateboard, Senior Class Night at Disneyland or getting lost on the 405.

Of course, this tradition of building a model of a California mission devolved into outbreaks of Helicopter Parenting, wherein in Mom and Dad “helped” their fourth-grader with their mission project, which might turn out to look liked something architect Julia Morgan had turned out in her studios.

Mine didn’t.

Mine, consisting of cut-up grocery store cardboard boxes, strips of newsprint that became gobs of papier-mache (the goo doesn’t taste all that bad, I found out), looked more or less like Richard Dreyfuss’ s mashed potatoes in Close Encounters of the Third Kind. Contrast that image with the companies who figured out how to make a buck off modern fourth-graders by selling them manufactured kits (“Insert Bell Part 36a into Belltower Part 12”). This kit depicts Mission Santa Ines, my Mom’s favorite mission and my fourth-grade project.

Mine really shouldn’t have been named for little St. Agnes, who’d already been martyred once. It instead wound up looking like Our Lady of the Mashed Potatoes.


I passed fourth grade, despite that project. The historic coincidence? Here are Mom, Roberta, Bruce and me visiting Mission Santa Ines about 1960. Twenty-six years after that photo was taken, and twenty-four after my Mission Santa Ines fourth-grade project, my wife Elizabeth and I were married there.

The end.

Here Comes Mr. Jordan (1941)

I knew this film was a four-star classic, but I’d never seen it, maybe because I wasn’t acquainted with all the leads, especially Robert Montgomery, whom I knew only as John Wayne’s PT Boat commander in They Were Expendable. More on Montgomery to follow; he was perfect in Mr. Jordan.

John Wayne, Donna Reed and Robert Montgomery in They Were Expendable.

Mr. Jordan, of course, belongs to my parents’ generation—at least it did, before Turner Classic Movies (thank you, TCM). But since imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, the remake that belongs to my generation is its own classic. Heaven Can Wait. No wonder it’s a classic, too: Elaine May wrote the screenplay, Buck Henry directed it and Warren Beatty was that film’s producer and star.

The premise for both films is that an athlete is snatched from his body just before a painful death by a well-meaning collector/angel. When he gets to St. Peter’s Gate, it’s actually an airport where a fog-enshrouded airplane awaits for another manifest of souls to board. Both the dead protagonists, Joe (Robert Montgomery) the boxer and Joe (Warren Beatty) the Rams quarterback, are not on the admittance list. It’s not there time. So both have their souls kind of transfused into not-dead-yet bodies to give them a chance to live out their lives. In both cases, the bodies belong to ruthless tycoons who have victimized countless people in their climb to the top.

Among their victims are the beautiful young women that will figure in Joe’s second chance at life.

Montgomery’ s boxer—is that a Bronx accent?—is a big dumb guy who really isn’t dumb at all. He’s an innocent, a man who’s driven to be a boxing champ takes great joy in playing an atrocious sax. He’s also kind, innately generous, loves kids and he falls in love. Beatty, who is masterful at playing characters who are on the verge of incoherence, due mostly to their shyness, is likewise charming. His Joe’s a good Joe, too.

And both fall in love, hit by the thunderbolt, with young women who are very much like the Joes, pure of heart. Evelyn Keyes (Betty) plays that role in Mr. Jordan. She is stunning. I got hit by the thunderbolt, too.

Montgomery and Evelyn Keyes.

Keyes was 25 when she made this film; she was 23 as Suellen O’Hara, in GWTW, where she got two minutes’ screen time as a whiny kid sister. In Mr. Jordan, she’s so pure of heart that she’d kind of shiny. Hollywood’s a fantasy factory, of course: the real-life Keyes was married five times, had an abortion just before Gone With the Wind, and took as lovers Kirk Douglas, Glenn Ford, Anthony Quinn, Eddie Fisher (later Elizabeth Taylor’s husband), Mike Todd (ditto), David Niven, Robert Stack, Peter Lawford, directors John Huston (a husband) and Charles Vidor (another, no relation to King Vidor) and studio executives Harry Cohn and Joseph Schenck. She paid, by golly, for all those bedroom gymnastics, dying in Montecito in 2008.

She was 91.

The cast of Mr. Jordan is slightly smaller, but it includes three actors I admire. Claude Rains was a pain in the ass to work with, it’s said, as demanding as a rock band that demands iced Stolicynaya and a gallon jar of M&Ms, but no green ones, in the dressing room. His arch portrayal of Captain Renault almost steals the show in Casablanca; in this film, he is suave and unrufllable, a word I just made up. That’s a wonderful character actor in the photo below, James Gleason, as Joe’s manager, Montgomery, and Claude Rains as Mr. Jordan. In the second, on the left, is Edward Everett Horton, and endearing comedic actor who became the voice of “Fractured Fairy Tales,” in an equally endearing cartoon show, The Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle, from my long-ago youth.

The Beatty film’s actors are just as impressive. Jack Warden is Joe’s football coach and James Mason is the perfect counterpart to Rains’s Mr. Jordan.

This film is nearly stolen by the two co-stars, Dyan Cannon and Charles Grodin, who plot to murder the Beatty character, now in a millionaire’s body, for his estate. Their ineptitude is spectacular. In the earlier film, Rita Johnson and John Emory are the would-be killers.

And the young woman who falls in love with her Joe in the later film is Julie Christie. (Montgomery’s tenor sax in 1941 has become a soprano sax in 1978.)


When we see both young women in both films the first time, we are gobsmacked. No wonder it wasn’t Joe’s time.


Robert Montgomery’s Joe discovers it’s not his time in the transport to Heaven way-station early in the 1941 film. Unfortunately, the plane chosen for the 1978 version is the ill-fated Concorde. But there’s one more little payoff: the co-pilot in 1941 is twenty-eight-year-old Lloyd Bridges, I wonder why Evelyn Keyes didn’t conquer that incredibly handsome young man.

But, of course, maybe she did.