Four tickets (to paradise?)

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Hey! Here’s a great Dad idea! John’s birthday is in October! Let’s go to a Niners game as a family! It’s a tradition!

Gail had two numbers as a Niners, 54 and later 88. John, a tight end at St. Joe’s, chose the latter.

And when the boys were little, we went to TWO Niners games. One was an Old Timers’ Day, and when they paraded down to the field, EVERY LAST ONE OF THEM WAS LIMPING. Check that. One wasn’t. It was this guy. You know, the one who threw the pass to the late, great Dwight Clark.

The Glory Days were long gone in 2004, when we saw soon-to-be-forgotten QB Tim Rattay take on the Arizona Cardinals. The Niners that year won only two games. *Gloom.* They were down 28-12 at the half, but Rattay, playing in Candlestick, started completing passes, among 400 yards of them, that would begin to shift the tide.

(By the way, here were the approximate directions for leaving Candlestick: “If you’re traveling south, take the US 101 North to the Oregon border, take the first exit and enter the US 101 South.) I loved this stadium, the one with the conveniently placed signs that read “VOMITORIUM.”

Anyway, Rattay led the Niners back and they won on a last-second field goal, 31-28. It was glorious. Two extremely made-up young ladies hugged Thomas. Mom hugged John, then Thomas. I hugged a jubilant Black lady next to me and we hopped up and down together for several seconds. Oh, then I hugged my family, by then all of us burnt beet red because we were in the end zone seats, directly in the sun.

P.S. The only other game the 49ers won that year? Also against the Cardinals.


We’ve also done a college football game. John’s late Uncle, Kevin Bruce, was a runty longhair linebacker who played for three Rose Bowl teams in the 1970s, for John McKay. He hit opposing players so hard that his helmet left a permanent dent in the bridge of his nose. This, and I suppose his frequent bleeding, impressed the hell out of his teammates, and he became a defensive team captain.


So for another birthday, we decided on a USC game–Stanford vs. the Trojans in the Coliseum. I don’t know that it still is, but O.J.’s number was still displayed in the stands. We found a nice place to park the car—I think it was in Marina del Rey—in exchange for large sums of money. We got to the Coliseum and rooted for the Trojans until about midway through the second quarter, when the Trojan fans, drunken louts, became so obnoxious that we secretly rooted for The Cardinal, to no avail. They lost. But USC does NOT have the Hoover Institution, where I got to hold the X-Ray of Hitler’s skull taken after the July 1944 Bomb Plot. (COOL!)

But we came away impressed with athletes who were NOT football players. The Stanford Dancing Redwood Tree was manic but kind of endearing. He/she never stopped moving.Neither did the USC Songleaders. They were INCREDIBLE!

So I thought it would be a grand idea to get those tickets for John’s birthday. The Niners? The lousier the team, the cheaper the tickets, so I picked the Jacksonville Jaguars game. (John admired Jaguars QB Mark Brunell, who played for St. Joe’s, and he was our next-door neighbor when I was a college student in SLO. Brunell was about two and a little blondie, like his Mom, then.)

Four tickets just below the landing gear of the jets coming into the San Jose airport (DUCK!), and on the visitors’ side, where the Niners look like little red Mexican jumping beans? $500.

Not to be dismayed, I tried the Rams whatever their stadium is called. It should be called the Roman Gabriel Coliseum, in my opinion. The Rammies tickets were a little higher.

Well, maybe a Los Angeles/Still Should be San Diego Chargers game? Still 500-dollarish.

Doesn’t have to be pro football. How about those Trojans? Closer to $600.

I know this sound self-pitying, but that’s not exactly my point. Football tickets have always been expensive, and rightfully so, because football seasons are so much shorter than baseball or basketball seasons and football teams, with equipment, weight rooms, uniforms, medical staffs and team doctors and those enormous servings of Ribeye steak and grilled shrimp drive those team owners’ costs up. They’re just living on the edge, anyway,*

*Sarcasm intended.

All of this online ticket-hunting took about two hours, but that’s not my point, either.

There actually was a time when a family of four, every few years, could splurge on football tickets. “Splurge,” in these times, is a word this family doesn’t use much anymore.

True, baseball remains my favorite sport. But I’d like to see a pro football game again, if only to remind me of a player—neither a 49er nor a Trojan—who remains one of my favorite athletes of all time. (Never mind what the NFL says below. Click on the link.)



Cinco de Mayo, the incredible 1860s, and Oaxaca

It’s not Mexican Independence Day, but it’s almost as important. On May 5, 1862, Mexican troops loyal to President Benito Juarez defeated a superior French army, sent to Mexico by French Emperor Napoleon III to subjugate the nation. This was so he could keep some unemployed royals (Prince Harry might be a modern analogy), the Austrian Maximilien I Hapsbug and his wife, Carlota, on the throne as the emperor and empress of Mexico.

That didn’t work out. Puebla was a kind of turning point and Napoleon III’s forces eventually were driven out.

If the French lost the Battle of Puebla, but they at least made a fashion statement. You can see their zouaves, with the baggy pants characteristic of French North African colonial troops, on the left (that’s triumphant Juarez in the center.) The style would be adopted by both Union and Confederate troops–for the latter, the Louisiana Tigers-in our Civil War. The second illustration shows Union Zouaves at the Second Battle of Manassas, also in 1862.

The 1860s, then, were a time of intense and fratricidal struggles toward nationalism, and these were a few of that decade’s incredible leaders.


Maximilien and Carlota were not among them. Here are the two of them—she was lovely—then there’s Maximilien, in the painting, just informed of his imminent execution by Mexican Republican soldiers, in 1867, and finally, there’s elderly Carlota, confined to a Belgian palace where she went loony. Sometimes she’d prance out to a fountain in the front of the palace, jump in, and announce boldly that she was sailing back to Mexico.

So it goes.


Here’s the palace where the imperial couple lived, above Mexico City. It’s also marked by its defense, in the Mexican War, by teenaged military cadets as they fought the United States Marines (“The Halls of Montezuma…”). One of them, to avoid the shame of losing it to the gringos, wrapped the Mexican national flag around his body and leaped to his death over Chapultepec’s cliffs.


One of the things that makes me mark this battle and Juarez himself is the fact that his ancestry was indigenous, from the Zapotec people of Oaxaca. In the last decade or so, the Oaxacan presence on the Central Coast of California, where I live, has grown significantly. And, while this is a grand statement—these are beautiful people—Vogue magazine appears to agree with me.


And then there’s the food. This young man, a Londoner, gets it.

@xavskitchen

OAXACA CITY EATS
Oaxaca will completely change how you view food and let me show you why. Now if you didn’t know, Oaxaca is widely known as the food capital of Mexico and for GOOD reason, the food here is on another level, this place is a non negotiable if you ever visit this wonderful country! My full list, including recommendations, advice and locations of each spot will be on my weekly newsletter soon… Go subscribe, link in my bio. #oaxaca #mexicanfood #mexico #food #fyp

♬ DtMF – Bad Bunny

So, Viva Benito Juarez y Feliz Cinco de Mayo!



Walter’s week

This is Walter, our four-year-old Basset Hound, having a snooze with his good buddy Winston the Cat. It’s been tough Walter week. It began on Sunday (in the first picture) and gradually got worse. One week and three vet trips later, what turned out to be an abscess is now an ordeal. Walter is very brave. Elizabeth and I are wrecks.

Sunday

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Monday
Tuesday. Vet trip #1.


Thursday, after a long telephone vet consultation.


Friday, at the Atascadero Pet Hospital. Vet trip #2.
Aunt Evie’s morale-restoring visit, Friday.
Friday night. He whimpered a lot.
Saturday.
Saturday, on the bed we made for him on the floor.
Sunday morning: The drainage site came open.
Sunday, at the Arroyo Grande emergency vet. He’s there now; they’re going to have to sedate him, clean out the wound and hope to find any foreign object–a foxtail, a chicken-bone fragment–that might still be there. Vet trip #3.

Home from the vet, Sunday evening.
Fortunately, the emergency vet is Dr. Elizabeth Adam, one of Elizabeth Gregory’s students at St. Joe. She saved Winston the Cat’s life. She also found the foxtail, near Walter’s eye, that caused the infection.

And I give you Winston:

Neil Young on the brain…

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About 1972, in his apartment on Osos Street, my friend Joe Loomis played this for me. I was gobsmacked. Seven years later, my friend Greg Wilson took me to a midnight showing of the concert film Live Rust. Double gobsmacked. When Greg invited me and Elizabeth to see Coastal at the Fremont last week—Daryl Hannah’s documentary of her husband Neil’s tour—I was, well, you know.

The documentary’s music, most of it unfamiliar to me, means I have to go back and restock my Neil Young shelf. What I found out, too, is, as severe as he always looks, and always has, Neil Young is very funny, with a droll, dry sense of humor. He pokes fun at himself, which is a virtue. I found out, as well, how much he loves his family and how passionate he is about preserving the natural world.

He is an incredible man, and we even got to hear him speak, on the Fremont stage (the theater opened in 1942 with an appearance by Laurel and Hardy), and seeing him in person only affirmed the impact he’d had on me that day in Joe’s apartment.

That said, and meaning no disrespect, these are a few of my favorite Neil Young covers. I’m not the only one who’s been gobsmacked.

1. Cowboy Junkies, , “Powderfinger.” Their cover of Lou Reed’s “Sweet Jane” is epic, but here, the Junkies takes this song’s marvelous fuzzy electric guitar work, from Live Rust, back to its bluegrass roots. Since I think Young’s song references the Civil War, that makes this version—that violin!—wholly appropriate.


2. Molly Tuttle, “Helpless.” Another performer who links rock and bluegrasss, introduced to me by my friend Michael Shannon. She strikes me as immensely courageous—she also covers the Rolling Stones’ psychedelic “She’s A Rainbow,” which takes balls as big as church bells. The reference to Ontario resonates with me too, because that’s where my Irish Famine ancestors settled in the late 1840s.


3. Bryan Ferry, “Like A Hurricane.” Ferry will never sing a Mozart opera, but the beautiful young woman at the keyboard and later the sax floors me. So does the young guitarist in the yellow shirt. A little Europop vibe in this interpretations, and I dig it.



4. The Dave Matthews Band, “Cortez the Killer.” Despite its kinda sorta historical glossing-overs (the Mexica, or Aztec, ate their enemies after mock combat called “Flower Wars.” With chiles.), I do love this song, because they do get the Cortez part right. Another stellar guitar solo.


5. Bryan Machaca, “Bluebird.” In the film Coastal, this was the one throwback song that Young performed. It’s Steven Stills’s song, and Young played it on a guitar that Stills had given him. This young man gets it, and he’s a gifted guitarist.






The Cypress Trees along Halcyon Road

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My Facebook friend Jason Blanco posted this photo and leave it to my historian friends Shirley Gibson and Michael Shannon, all of us are now pretty sure that this is Halcyon Road, somewhere between the mobile home park and the Halcyon store today. 

Jason’s photo is from about 1908.

Those cypress trees are nearly all dead now, and ghastly-looking, but more than 100 years ago, they were dense. Halcyon Road was like a funnel, bounded by thick and dense green cypress, until you hit the County Highway, today’s Highway 1, to Oceano.

Shirley and Michael pinpointed the man who planted the cypress. He was Thomas Hodges, a Civil War veteran (45th Missouri Volunteer Infantry), who planted them as a windbreak to protect his fruit trees. He made a guest appearance in my Civil War book.

Arroyo Grande has always been famous for its row crops. You can read about them in old newspapers as far away as Kansas and South Carolina. Our pumpkins were astonishing.

But tree crops were important too—some of you may remember dense walnut groves that surrounded AGHS, until they were decimated by the husk fly larvae.

Arroyo Grande High School at the bottom of the photo with the vast walnut orchards beyond.

But even on the “farmette” (3 acres) where I grew up, on Huasna Road, there were fruit trees that preceded our house, built in 1956. So I grew up with:

–Plums

–Apricots

–Peaches

–Apples

–Oranges

–Lemons

–Avocados. 

The house where I grew up, Lopez Drive and Huasna Road. Two walnut trees remain at left, in the lower pasture. The big fella out front is a loquat tree. The Queen Anne’s Lace in the foreground was always there. Arroyo Grande Creek is just beyond the left edge of this photo.

We had nine avocado trees. They were nowhere near the best. The best avocados were grown by barber “Buzz” Langenbeck, whose barbershop is today’s Heritage Salon on Branch Street. Sadly, I did not appreciate avocados until the day I discovered guacamole, probably when I was in my twenties.

And you can find, if you look for them, at least two more generations of Hodges at AGUHS, playing sports, starring in school plays, elected to class office, graduating–the venues varied–at the movie theater in Pismo or the one in Arroyo Grande, today’s Posies in the Village.

Like any other living thing, cypress trees get old, turn brittle, and die. I don’t think that my hometown’s ties to history, even to the Civil War, ever die.

Adapted from The Heritage Press, South County Historical Society

HMS Bounty’s Arroyo Grande Connection

Wanda Snow Porter’s wonderful book about her husband’s ancestor. Charles Porter was a descendant of Isaac Sparks.

On April 28, 1789, mutineers led by Fletcher Christian put Capt. William Bligh and his loyalists into a longboat and sailed away with HMS Bounty. Bligh navigated his way to safety.

The mutineers sailed for Pitcairn Island and settled there, but violence was frequent. Some of their descendants still live on Pitcairn.

In 1791, the frigate HMS Pandora captured some of the mutineers and sailed for England for their trials. But Pandora wrecked on a reef near Australia and several mutineers died.

Among them was midshipman George Stewart, 21, killed by a falling gangway as Pandora broke up.

Stewart left behind his Polynesian wife, Pegue (“Peggy”) and their little girl, Maria Stewart (1790-1871).

Maria married George Washington Eayrs (1775-1855), an American ship captain, in Tahiti in 1809.

Their little girl, Maria de Los Remedios Josefa Antonio Eayrs, was born aboard Eayrs’s ship, Mercury, in Bodega Bay in 1813. (She died in 1871).

The brig Pilgrim, depicted leaving Santa Barbara for Monterey, was part of the active California trade with the East Coast, as was George Washington Eayrs.

She married Isaac James Sparks (1800-1865), the master of the Huasna Rancho, in Santa Barbara in 1836.

Their daughter, Maria Rosa, married Arza Porter in Santa Barbara in 187-.

The Porters still own the Huasna ranch today, and it’s still an active cattle ranch. This incredible pioneer family is our connection to the mutiny on HMS Bounty.

Actress Jean Arthur (1900-1991): An Appreciation

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Look at her competition: Myrna Loy. Veronica Lake. Rita Hayworth. Claudette Colbert, Joan Crawford, Lauren Bacall. Even Hedy Lamarr. I never forgave them for the Mamie Eisenhower haircut they gave her for Shane. But of all the beautiful actresses from Hollywood’s Golden Age, Jean Arthur, along with Ginger Rogers, endures with me.

It’s because I am a man, and therefore vain. What Arthur did, in nearly all her films, was to make her leading man better.

She restored James Stewart’s courage in Mr. Smith Goes to Washington (1939). She convinced Stewart, in You Can’t Take It With You (1938), even after his wealthy, snobby and dyspeptic family had met her wildly eccentric family in You Can’t Take It with You, that he made exactly the right choice in falling in love with her. Director Frank Capra made the right choice in casting her.


She talked Gary Cooper out of committing suicide in Mr. Deeds Goes to Town (1936).

In Only Angels Have Wings (1939), she sticks by Gary Cooper’s reckless Andes mail pilot and tempers—at least at little—his Hemingwayish appetite for self-destruction.

My favorite Jean Arthur film remains Easy Living (1937), with a screenplay by Preston Sturges. Arthur plays a young working-class New York City woman who runs out of money. She has to close her eyes to break her piggy bank. When a fur coat suddenly falls on her from a Manhattan high-rise, everybody assumes she’s rich and New York City lays out the proverbial red carpet. This film once again proves my thesis. Ray Milland is most recognizable to my generation as the cold-hearted father in Love Story (1970), and, a littler earlier, as the man who tried to have his wife, Grace Kelly, murdered in Hitchcock’s Dial M for Murder (1954). He is not funny.

But in Easy Living, ir’s Jean Arthur who reveals how funny Ray Milland could be, first in a wonderful automat scene, where you learn how fast food was served in the 1930s, and later as he, thoroughly confused, begins to fall in love with her. I think it was one of Milland’s best peformances, and I am convinced this because Jean Arthur evoked that performance from him.

If she brought out the best in her male leads, she was never subservient to them. If she fell in love with them, when the film ended, you were sometimes not sure that she’d stay with them.

You wanted to stay with her. She was the tomboy you’d grown up with, caught tadpoles with, watched, awestruck, as she hit the snot out of softball. And then, suddenly, when you were about thirteen, you realized that you were in love with her. (She went to the Prom with someone else.)

The real Jean Arthur was filled with near-constant anxiety, filled with self-doubt, and acting took, for her, immense reservoirs of courage that lay hidden deep inside. Only the singer Carly Simon, I think, has experienced stage fright as severe as Arthur’s was.

Jean retired because those reservoirs were never enough to drown that fear. What she’s left to us, in the fiction of film, is who she really was. Her personal character was marked by courage, by her willingness to confront, over and over, her deepest terrors. These were qualities that became transparent in the characters she played. I hope that somehow, long after her death in Carmel in 1991, that Jean Arthur realizes how admirable she was, both as an actor and as a human being.

Why I’m willing to try chapulines (a grasshopper taco)


It’s a simple matter of justice, you see. This article is from Heritage Press, the South County Historical Society’s newsletter. If I can find a restaurant that makes chapulines tacos, I am willing to try one. I am willing to be photographed. My eyes, of course, will be closed.

(I made a similar vow about Humboldt squid, so voracious that they are devastating West Coast fisheries. I guess they will eat anything, including the occasional Coast Guard cutter. (I recommend the Calamari Fries at Rooster Creek Tavern in Arroyo Grande.)

Anyway, here’s the grasshopper story.



The Great Grasshopper Invasion of 1934

By Jim Gregory, South County Historical Society President

It must’ve seemed Biblical. In the summer of 1931, swarms of grasshoppers descended on Iowa, Nebraska and South Dakota and began eating crops down to the roots.

Another infestation in 1937 Colorado led to the intervention of the National Guard. Guardsmen used flamethrowers to attack the insects.

In 1934, it was Arroyo Grande’s turn. Grasshoppers were the last thing County farmers needed.

The Depression had hit county agriculture hard. The total value of crops in 1929 San Luis Obispo was $12 million; by 1933, with the collapse of farm prices, the figure was $6 million. Poignant anecdotal evidence of the impact on farms can be found in the frequency of legal notices—foreclosure sales—in newspapers from the time.

1933—possibly the depth of the Depression—was accompanied by a singularly dry year in Arroyo Grande. By the end of 1934, over seven inches of rain had fallen. At the same time in 1933, the total was only a little over two inches.

The head of the New Deal’s Soil Conservation Service was struck by what overcultivation and dry weather had done to the canyons north and east of town. Arroyo Grande’s soil erosion was, he wrote, the worst he’d seen in the United States. (The Dust Bowl was yet to come.)


The Dust Bowl was yet to come.

Dry conditions are ideal for grasshopper eggs. So in the spring of 1934, swarms began appearing in Suey Canyon, east of Santa Maria. That was ominous.


In 1873, a grasshopper infestation literally seemed to explode from Suey Canyon. L.J. Morris, a Santa Maria justice of the peace in 1873, wrote that “they came in great clouds, miles in extent so thick that they obscured the sun and the day grew as dark as deep twilight.”

“They settled down on the first bit of greenery they saw,” Morris continued. “They stripped young orchards in a twinkling…nothing was left but the little stubs of the trees, every shred of bark gone.”

Now, in 1934, history was repeating itself. This time, the grasshoppers descended on cars traveling between Santa Maria and Nipomo, fouling radiators and so obscuring windshields that drivers had to pull off the road.

“The Tar Spring Road,” an April Arroyo Grande Herald-Recorder reported, “was a moving mass of hoppers from Newsom Canyon…to the Andre Dowell alfalfa field.”

Cars traveling between Nipomo and Arroyo Grande had to pull over to the side of what was then the two-lane 101. Grasshoppers had so fouled their windshield wipers that they no longer worked, and the air along the road was so thick with uncrushed grasshoppers that it resembled the Valley’s famous tule fog.

And they had the same appetite their forebears had demonstrated 1873.

Town blacksmith Jack Schnyder was proud of his new lawn, which he wet down to discourage ethe grasshoppers, but they “dug it out by the roots.”  The bean crop in Tar Springs Canyon was completely destroyed.

They descended on other parts of the county, as well. In Cambria, known for dairy farming, milk cows refused to go out to pasture—the grasshoppers terrified them. Cal Poly students lit backfires to deprive them of vegetation as they closed in on San Luis Obispo.



Local ranchers met in Edna to come up with a plan which they presented to the Board of Supervisors, where Supervisor Asa Porter of the Huasna Valley acted as their spokesman, successfully securing county funding for fighting the pests.

Poison mash was one antidote. A helpful article in the Pismo Times included a recipe for poison mash, which included citrus fruits, two quarts of molasses, bran and a pound of white arsenic. The mixture was spread over farm fields in the hope that the grasshoppers would take the bait.

Sadly, what seemed to end the 1934 infestation were the grasshoppers themselves; having devoured so many crops in their fields and so much pastureland, they moved on.

But they threatened to return. “Grasshoppers Hatching in Nipomo Area,” a Herald-Recorder front-page headline announced in July 1935. The Farm Bureau and area farmers crossed their fingers and hoped for fog: cool, damp weather destroyed grasshopper eggs effectively.

Just in case, the county had twenty tons of poison mash in reserve.



I few days ago, I wrote a little about one of my favorite film directors, Terrence Malick, whose visual sense is astounding. In this sequence from his Days of Heaven, you can see what grasshoppers can do. Actually, these are locusts, but I looked it up, and the difference, scientifically explained, confused me.

Are Grasshoppers and Locusts the Same?

Locusts belong to three specific Acrididae subfamilies: the spur-throated, band-winged, and slant-faced grasshoppers. With this in mind, they are, technically, grasshoppers.

What sets locusts apart from other grasshoppers is their behavior. Only the grasshoppers in these specific subfamilies have the ability to become locusts because no other species are able to exhibit the necessary behaviors.

Locusts, I guessed, are marked by hanging out on street corners, wearing black leather jackets, smoking Camel shorts and rubbing their legs insolently at passers-by.

Locust or grasshopper, this film clip shows you why, South County 1934 farmers, I will be your Retribution.

Three Terrence Malick films on Earth Day


I remember learning that, in 1500, a squirrel—a determined squirrel, mind you—could leap from tree to tree from New York to North Carolina. The prairie grass that began at the border of what would become Kansas was so tall that a man on horseback would disappear once he rode into it, like the way the ballplayers disappeared in Field of Dreams. Thirty million buffalo filled the prairie.

I don’t know that any director, not since John Ford and Monument Valley, has had the visual instinct for what America was like seventy, 150 or 400 years ago, as Terrence Malick has shown in his films, which are lyrical and almost leisurely the latter being purposeful: the rhythm gives you time enough to enjoy the nation’s beauty and the shock of his action sequences hit you that much harder.

Here are three favorites: Badlands (1973), based on the true story of two teens, Charlie Starkweather and Carol Fugate who become killers in 1958.



For Days of Heaven (1978), Malick had to shoot in Alberta to give an authentic sense to what Texas wheatland was like in 1916.

Finally, Malick had the audacity to go back to the encounter between The First People and Europeans in 1607. This is his film The New World.